The availability of the tartan likely has a lot to do with it. For instance, at the Scottish Tartans Museum, we sell a 16 oz 8 yard knife pleated kilt for $537. However, the same weight and style kilt in a "rare select" tartan is $629.

The difference is simply that some tartans cost more per yard than others. It simply has to do with how popular a tartan is, and how much of it the mills produce at a time. To give an example, modern Gordon is priced standard. Weathered Red Gordon is priced "rare select." So the same style of kilt, in the same weight wool, made by the same kilt makers, in each of these two tartans would cost different.

And these are tartans readily available from stock! You want an 8 yard kilt in a tartan that has to be custom woven? Assuming we are having just a single kilt length woven for you, that will be $740 for the kilt. Again, same exact style of kilt, same weight cloth. It all depends upon the availability of the tartan.

So with an uncommon tartan like the Australian National tartan, I can see how some kiltmakers would have a much higher cost. Maybe one would have to have it custom woven just for the one job. That would be rather expensive. Maybe another kiltmaker has access to cloth from a whole bolt that has already been woven, which would keep the cost of the cloth down. That kilt would be less.

In any case, you always have to expect to pay more with these more uncommon tartans (and count yourself lucky when you get a good deal!).

Aye,
Matt

(As an aside, this is probably why I sell so many more box pleated kilts in unusual tartans than standard 8 yarders. A four yard box pleated kilt even in a custom woven tartan is $480, which still manages to be less than your average high-quality 8 yard kilt. It's an affordable way of getting that rare tartan you really want at a standard kilt price.)