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Thread: Kilt Material

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    31st May 06
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    Clinton, South Carolina (USA)-> Atlanta native
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChattanCat View Post
    Help me out, I don't know what a box pleat is. I understand it is pleat, reverse pleat, reveal, pleat, reverse pleat.

    I also understand that the box pleat uses less material. Why?
    From the best known box pleat maker's site:
    On the yardage:
    http://kilts.albanach.org/yardage.html
    On the shape of the pleat:
    http://kilts.albanach.org/details.html

    My version:


    Say, A tartan has a 9 inch set, not uncommon.
    Knife pleat, to stripe:
    1 inch reveal, 8 inches for each pleat for a 4 inch deep pleat.
    for a 24 inch pleated area, one needs 24 facings (1x24), or 24x9=216 inches
    (roughly, as I am not taking a few factors into account, for simplicity)

    A box pleat has 1/3 of a sett as a facing, 1/3 as the rear facing and 1/6 as each in pleat section (if that makes any sense).
    So, that same 9 inch set makes a 3 inch facing.
    for a 24 inch pleated area, one needs 8 facings (3x8), or 9x8=72 inches
    (roughly, as I am not taking a few factors into account, for simplicity)
    (on me, I'd make a small apron

    The difference is in the pleats.
    In a box pleat, there would be 2 yards in back and 2 in front (counting aprons and reverse pleats).
    In a knife pleat, there would be 6 yards in back and 2 in front.

    A box pleat also swings a bit different and "feels" rather different.
    I think it feels more balanced (front to back), and the facing pleats act as a bit of an "anchor" to the pleats in wind, while the knife spreads like an accordian.
    Most box pleats are also made in 16 oz or heavier wool, a BEAR weight in a knife pleat. I havn't had much of a wind problem in my 16 oz box.

    A knife has the swing, while a box is, to me, more comfortable to actually wear in daily activities. I am comparing it to a 16 oz 5 yard knife I made first, so I can't imagine sitting and driving in an 8 yarder.

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by MacWage View Post
    From the best known box pleat maker's site:
    On the yardage:
    http://kilts.albanach.org/yardage.html
    On the shape of the pleat:
    http://kilts.albanach.org/details.html

    My version:


    Say, A tartan has a 9 inch set, not uncommon.
    Knife pleat, to stripe:
    1 inch reveal, 8 inches for each pleat for a 4 inch deep pleat.
    for a 24 inch pleated area, one needs 24 facings (1x24), or 24x9=216 inches
    (roughly, as I am not taking a few factors into account, for simplicity)

    A box pleat has 1/3 of a sett as a facing, 1/3 as the rear facing and 1/6 as each in pleat section (if that makes any sense).
    So, that same 9 inch set makes a 3 inch facing.
    for a 24 inch pleated area, one needs 8 facings (3x8), or 9x8=72 inches
    (roughly, as I am not taking a few factors into account, for simplicity)
    (on me, I'd make a small apron

    The difference is in the pleats.
    In a box pleat, there would be 2 yards in back and 2 in front (counting aprons and reverse pleats).
    In a knife pleat, there would be 6 yards in back and 2 in front.

    A box pleat also swings a bit different and "feels" rather different.
    I think it feels more balanced (front to back), and the facing pleats act as a bit of an "anchor" to the pleats in wind, while the knife spreads like an accordian.
    Most box pleats are also made in 16 oz or heavier wool, a BEAR weight in a knife pleat. I havn't had much of a wind problem in my 16 oz box.

    A knife has the swing, while a box is, to me, more comfortable to actually wear in daily activities. I am comparing it to a 16 oz 5 yard knife I made first, so I can't imagine sitting and driving in an 8 yarder.
    Thanks MacWage, Lord of the box pleat!
    Wallace Catanach, Kiltmaker

    A day without killting is like a day without sunshine.

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