A Military box pleat kilt

[The F-H.C.A.G.]

Reading this thread just shows me how far I have to go! I am admittedly tired after a long day of work and two drinks, but I realize how far out of my league I am in this whole kilt making business.....Yay, the challenge of learning new things ! I agree that an addendum to The Art of Kiltmaking is in order (always with Barb and Elsie's approval).

Be well,

[Pleater]

If that doesn't drive you mad, consider (like me!) the possibility of doing this to the sett!
But without the continual challenges, life would be boring.

To the sett? TO THE SETT!!!

Oh deary deary me.

You do indeed like to push the boundaries.

The more I look at it the more I see it as a five five fold box pleat with the innermost 'arm' extended to double the length of the inner one.

Or, another way to look at it is a knife pleat where the innermost layer of the fold has been slid to the left (looking at the waist band end from the outside of the kilt) so as to make a reverse pleat equal in size to the reveal of the pleat.

Looking at it that way there is the posibility of sewing the pleats by machine, which I think I will have to do. Even making my own kilts I am finding it difficult to afford them - so much time required to get the pleats just right.

I suspect that a military box pleat will add more movement to the Kinguisse and reverse Kinguisse style kilts - particularly in a heavier fabric.

I have the other side of the fabric I used for the 'eight yards of darkness' kilt - a 'peached' cotton. The knife pleats cling a little - I think that will be the first mbp reverse Kinguisse kilt in existance. I will work on the patterned cloth once I am sure of the technique.

Now - if each inch of pleat requires seven inches of cloth - so - where's an old envelope? To get thirty one pleats - mmm could do that in the Kinguisse style, but reversed it would have to be an even number....

[turpin]

[QUOTE=JohnH;382437]

[The 64 hand sewn prototypes that were made by Argyle Bagpipes were recently offered for sale on eBay.co.uk. I did not buy one because they are current issue, but, it was very tempting. {It’s an honour thing. I do wear my Naval dress sword belt (minus the frog) with my kilts even though it is still current issue, but I did serve in the RN, as did both of my parents. I never did and never will serve in the RRS.}] The expired auction can be seen at:
http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...3216&rd=1&rd=1

Note these kilts may be relisted later as none appear to have been sold.
QUOTE]

In fact, they have been relisted

http://cgi.ebay.ca/Kilt-Royal-Regime...QQcmdZViewItem

John, I love stripe-pleated kilts, and your in-depth and thoughful treatment of the anatomy and physiology of the military box pleat has added significantly to the knowledge base of this forum. Thanks so much for taking the time to document the process.

[JohnH]

John, I love stripe-pleated kilts, and your in-depth and thoughful treatment of the anatomy and physiology of the military box pleat has added significantly to the knowledge base of this forum. Thanks so much for taking the time to document the process.

Thank you for that, Turpin. way2fractious is way ahead of me on this. This is only my second hand-sewn kilt. It has driven me to "Scream! Tear hair! Rend loincloth! etc." But, it is finally beginning to look like it should.

If it should come to pass that Barb, Elsie, w2f and any other contributors agree that a "manual" would be worthwhile, then I would be more than more than willing to contribute what I can. (My day job is typesetting books.)

[way2fractious]

As does Robert McDonald of "West Coast Kilts. (Thanks for that info. Steve. I'm sorry that I will miss his expose at KiltKamp.)

A exploratory discussion regarding military box pleats has been set for the Kilt Kamp. Barb's response to the proposed discussion was favorable, and if Robert McDonald joins it (as someone who actually knows how to make them), even better!

[Mr. MacDougall]

I have to confess that, even with the diagram, I still don't understand what makes a military box pleat different from what Matt makes. I guess I'll have to buy one and see....

[way2fractious]

Here are some pics comparing box pleats to military box pleats. Hope these help.


Here are the box pleats you have seen - basted up at about 2 1/2 inces wide. See how few there are to cover my skinny backside. This is a 4-yard kilt.



The left side of this pic shows the depth (about 2 inches) and reveals (about 1 inch) of a military box pleat kilt. I needed all 8 yards of tartan for this kilt and about 21-22 of these much narrower pleats.



The following was posted by Panache - pics at a kilt night where Alan H was wearing his California tartan box pleat kilt (4th pic) and I was wearing my Weathered MacLaren military box pleat kilt (5th pic). The differences are quite distinct, but each is a kilt, each has its place, and everyone has preferences.

http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/s...48&postcount=1


Now, if you ask again...


I'll drive down to Arizona with my whole kollection (threaten, threaten)




BTW - did you mean to buy a box pleat from Matt or an MBP from me?

w2f

[Wompet]

I think this is what MacDougall is looking for:
pleating styles compared

BTW - did you mean to buy a box pleat from Matt or an MBP from me?

Well, if he isn't, I am.
Just kidding - but once I find that right tartan, you'll be getting a passel of PMs from me when I attempt mine.

[JohnH]

Reading this thread just shows me how far I have to go! I am admittedly tired after a long day of work and two drinks, but I realize how far out of my league I am in this whole kilt making business.....Yay, the challenge of learning new things ! (The F-H.C.A.G.)

I'm not convinced as your sewing skills are much more advanced than mine. I view these pleats as just another technique, the layout and sewing are where the skill is required. (I trained as an electronics engineer, so I suppose that I am looking at cold logic here.)

There does seem to be some confusion about military box pleats. The real problem is that they are mis-named (but we're stuck with it.). What they really are, are rolled knife pleats. Thank you for finding that link Wompet. I just spent a couple of hours looking for it! (The search engine does not like "box" because it has less than 4 characters.)

Normally, these kilts are pleated with one sett to the pleat, although the kilts worn by the Royal Scots and the Canadian Scottish (Hunting Stewart.) are pleated to alternate stripes. (Red, yellow, red, yellow etc.) I pleated my Hunting Rose kilt in this manner and had 8" left over from 8 yards.

That was because I used 1 1/2 setts per pleat. (27 pleats.) To do it that way for 31 pleats would require 9+ yards. I can only assume that the military Hunting Stewart kilts are pleated alternately with 1 1/2 and 1/2 a sett. This would average 1 sett per pleat, but the pleat depths would also alternate between 1 1/2" and 3". I have never seen one of these kilts up close so, does anyone know?

[Fraser and Kirkbright will weave a batch of 13oz PV in Hunting Stewart if there is enough demand. (Hint. Hint.)]

Progress update: I finally got the pleat folds to butt together and lay flat. I just put in the steeking and reinforcement strip. (The pleat measurements ended up spot on target!) The canvas is next.

[Wompet]

I had to use "military pleat diagram" to find it.
13 oz Hunting Stewart PV ... I'll have to get back to you about that (not here - no hijacking).