Box or Knife pleats

[Bryan]

Okay, so I'm ready to order my new kilt, but now I'm torn between having it knife pleated or having it box pleated. Would the Murray (of Atholl) tartan look better a certain way? I've personally never seen the Murray tartan box pleated. Any thoughts?

[MacWage]

Well,

I PERSONALLY LOVE box-pleats. EITHER can be pleated to either stripe or sett, with the preferable being based on BOTH tastes and sett.
The BIGGEST difference is the weight and yardage.
Box pleats work BEST with heavier weights (16 oz or heavier is preferable). I have been wearing my 16 oz box pleats in the present 105 and higher temps (hot and humid American southeast) and find them COOLER than canvas weight cotton SHORTS!
Box pleats also tend to have LARGER pleat facings, usually between 2 and 4 inches. I like around 3 inch, but have 2-4 inch ones on different kilts.
That yardage is, BASICALLY 3 times your largest measurement (hip or waist)-> there MAY be differences on some folks, but not sure what that would be.

Knife pleats facings can vary from 1/8 inch to 1 or 2 inches. It depends on number and depth of the pleat.
You CAN use ANYTHING from 11 (on LIGHTEST SIDE) TO 18 OR EVEN 20s oz fabric. Most, it seems, like 13 oz as a balance between cost, heat, and weight.

The pros and cons of the 2 have been in NUMEROUS threads here in the past. Use the "SEARCH" feature to find a few and read. It was in one of THOSE threads that I was dubbed "Lord of the Box Pleat" by a fellow poster.
I would call Bob Martin (the one revived the box pleat style) as the King of the Box Pleat and Matt Newsome as the Crown Prince of the Box Pleat.

I am a FAN of the box pleat style and ALL my kilts but my VERY FIRST are box pleats (and I make all my own kilts).

My preference is based on cost (half the cost of MATERIAL for the wool), comfort (MUCH better balanced than knife pleat), and I like the "clean" look. The balance comes from half of the material in the front and half in the back on a box pleat. A typical 8 yard knife would have 2 in front and 6 (SIX) in back, while a box pleat for the same person will have 2 in front (same) and 2 (TWO) in back.

I FREQUENTLY drive 3-4 hours in my box pleat kilts (between my home and downtown Atlanta). I know a number (who have 8 yards) who WOULDN'T, simply because of the discomfort of sitting on 6 yards of wool layers.

Last Thursday, I was driving home IN MY KILT and a MIATA (MX-5), TOP DOWN, In heat SO HOT that my A/C would add enough extra engine strain for my engine temp to go up in heavy traffic and slower speeds. So, it was OFF. It was 100 when I got off the interstate 2.5 hours AFTER I left. So, the 2:00 road temp in Atlanta HAD to be over 120 or more ambiant with the car heat (engine and exhaust) of the hundreds of cars on 6 lanes (each side) wall divided interstate FULL of cars.
I was COMFORTABLE, if a bit sweaty.

My vote is ALWAYS in favor of box pleats.

[HeathBar]

Another reason to go for box pleats is the unique factor. Outside this forum you won't see many box pleated kilts. As far as I know, Matt is the only kiltmaker offering box pleated kilts. I've hosted a clan tent at my local games for about 5 years now and last year, I saw one of his kilts there for the first time. So do you want to stand out in a crowd of kilts?

[Cawdorian]

Last Thursday, I was driving home IN MY KILT and a MIATA (MX-5), TOP DOWN, In heat SO HOT that my A/C would add enough extra engine strain for my engine temp to go up in heavy traffic and slower speeds. So, it was OFF. It was 100 when I got off the interstate 2.5 hours AFTER I left. So, the 2:00 road temp in Atlanta HAD to be over 120 or more ambiant with the car heat (engine and exhaust) of the hundreds of cars on 6 lanes (each side) wall divided interstate FULL of cars.
I was COMFORTABLE, if a bit sweaty.

I can't imagine sitting out there in that hot Atlanta sun on the interstate in an open sports car wearing a 16 oz wool kilt. The traffic here is horrible under the best of conditions, this summer has been the hottest summer I've ever spent in Atlanta. I prefer the view of the traffic from my air conditioned SUV.

[Sean_the_Kilted]

On the subject of box pleat kiltmakers, does Matt Newsome make solid color box pleat kilts or just tartan/tweed ones? If not does anyone? I know you can make an x kilt yourself but does anyone make them commercially for those of us that are sewing challeged?

[MacWage]

On the subject of box pleat kiltmakers, does Matt Newsome make solid color box pleat kilts or just tartan/tweed ones? If not does anyone? I know you can make an x kilt yourself but does anyone make them commercially for those of us that are sewing challeged?

How about Tweeds:
http://kilts.albanach.org/tweeds.html

[Tattoo Bradley]

On the subject of box pleat kiltmakers, does Matt Newsome make solid color box pleat kilts or just tartan/tweed ones? If not does anyone? I know you can make an x kilt yourself but does anyone make them commercially for those of us that are sewing challeged?

I have no doubt Matt would be more than happy to make you a box pleated kilt from a solid color, worsted wool, 13 oz. or heavier. Some of the mills offer a few solids in woolen cloth.

[Kid Cossack]

Yup, no box pleat fans here, eh?

I'll echo MacWage and Tattoo Bradley---I like and in fact prefer box pleated kilts, for a number of reasons: historical accuracy, lower cost (for an equivalent kilt), lighter weight, better balance, cleaner looks and a way to differentiate yourself from "all those other guys" who wear knife pleats.

I finally got a 16 ounce kilt in, and I really like the difference in material compared with the 13 ounce kilts I have.

[pdcorlis]

Box pleats are unique but Knife pleats Ssssssswwwwiiiiiiisssssshhhhh - box pleats don't...

[Bryan]

Okay, for those of you who do have box pleated kilts, what weight fabric is better? Or is there one? I think I'm leaning to 16oz for the added weight.