Having now worn the Leatherneck all around Charleston and gotten used to it I thought I might add a comment or two.

The pleating really is "military box". See http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/s...leating+styles

for illustrations.

I just pressed it for the first time a short while ago. Not as easy as knife pleats to deal with, but worth the small amount of additional trouble. I can press any of my traditional 4 or 8 yard woolies in 10 minutes or less. This one took about 15. I can most definitely live with (in!) it. I don't know the weight of the wool, but I found it quite comfortable in 85F+ temperatures. The military pleating results in five, yes, five layers in each pleat, but the resulting waist thickness is still about half what the Stillwater Heavyweight has. I bought one of those last year and had to have a seamstress cut out the excess material around the waist. 40 bucks. And well worth it. Shoot, I'd be pleased to pay that directly to Saint Jerry if he were to decide to offer it as an option.