SWK leatherneck

[Moosedog]

I really like the look of pleating to the sett. Does choosing sett over stripe or vice versa effect the cost by adding more yardage?

In general, pleating to the stripe can use less fabric than to the sett, partly because each pleat is shallower and partly because there are more pleating options available...if you study how to pleat the two you will see what I mean.

But this really is a gross generalization. It varies so much by: tartan, sett size, desired kilt weight, pleat size and depth...and all of these can vary due to your dimensions and what looks best. Each bespoke kilt is a completely new design, or engineering project, or math problem--however you want to look at it.

In reference to the Leatherneck kilts mentioned--I own an Economy and a Heavyweight wool box-pleat. Just did some measuring.

Economy:
sett is 6 inches
pleated to the stripe
pleats are approx 1 1/8 inches
so reveals are 4 7/8 inches (about 2 1/2 inches deep because of the fold)
So for a given 12 inches of pleats it uses ~11 repeats or 66 inches of fabric

Heavyweight (military) box pleat
Sett for this ~7 1/2 inches
pleats are 1 inch at the fell (they taper noticeably, unlike the economy)
So, 12 inches of pleats uses 12 setts or 90 inches of fabric

Both kilts are pleated to the same stripe-red in yellow. But because the box pleats are narrower, the back of that kilt is more yellow as you retain the bright stripe and lose some of the darker green and blue. See how all of this gets complicated? (laughing.)

Moosedog

[Cage]

Ah! I see.
Thanks for the great answer/insight Moosedog.