Kilt Q's - worsted wool and 3/2 straps

[James MacMillan]

It could be that the non-itchy one is Merino wool. I don't know what the Australians do to their sheep or who coined the term animal husbandry... I don't care because I find that Merino wool doesn't itch.

Merino wool was a new term, so I went googling and looky what I found!

These look pretty good for the price!

[O'Neille]

The longer the fibers the fewer sharp pointy ends stick out, which equals less itching. If the fibers are all oriented the same way and twisted tightly then there is less itching also. Lambs wool is only cut on one side so the only half the itchy poky bits are there to irritate you. So everything that can be done to reduce the sharpness of the cut fibers will reduce itching. That's why I own nothing made from rag wool, essentially recycled wool fibers that tend to be short and very itchy.

Science to the rescue. http://www.livescience.com/technology/050613_wool.html

[PaulX608]

Merino wool was a new term...

My new kilt that Rocky at USA Kilts put together is 14oz. Merino wool, and it is very soft. Not worsted, but not itchy at all.

[ChattanCat]

I am, by no means, and expert on weaving but the term Worsted describes three separate things.

1 A yarn used in weaving.
Here a Worsted Yarn is one where all the fibers have been combed to insure they are straightened and parallel.

2 A type of fabric
Here a cloth made from Worsted yarn is usually a Twill Weave and because the yarns are from straight and parallel fibers spun very tightly the fabric will recover from wrinkling very easily.

3 A weight of fabric
A fabric which is made from fibers at least three inches long, using Worsted yarns and having a size or Gauge of 16-20 stitches per 10 centemeters using a US size 9 needle

Whoa!!! information overload.
Basically Worsteds and Woolens are two different things. Worsting produces a fabric which has a very tight weave, a knubbly or "coarse" surface and has good wrinkle resistance.
Woolens on the other hand, "Breathe" better, are better insulators, and have a softer or more fleecy "hand".

WBC,

1. Worsted yarn is does have all the fibers aligned during spinning, but worsted also uses longer wool fibers than regular wool yarn.
Types of finish of worsted wool: hard is used for kilts, regular is typically available in the US as worsted and is softer feeling like flannel.

2. Weaves of worsted wool usually come in two types, regular and twill. Twill weave is used for making tartan fabrics. Regular type can be used for shirts, ties, etc.

3. Some wool comes in worsted weight but it is not the hard finish used for kilts.

Wallace

[The Wizard of BC]

As an added bonus the X Marks Tartan is woven by Fraser & Kirkbright who use only Australian Merino Wool. The individual hairs are smaller in diameter than typical Black Face sheep Wool. Softer, smoother and in a wonderful Tartan.

[Panache]

Since Worsted wool has been covered by the experts, I shall offer a comment on straps.

If you like the look of a strap on your hip by all means order a kilt with three straps.

It really is only there for appearance's sake. A well made kilt only requires two.

In days of old military kilts were worn much higher up the rib cage and two straps were needed for a proper fit. Civilian kilts followed the fashion of the three straps even though they were worn lower.

I personally prefer two.

Cheers

Jamie

[PaulX608]

I personally prefer two.

Cheers

Jamie

I also prefer two, but my new USA Kilt has three and it doesn't bother me. The third does seem superfluous, and I have to remember to fasten it.

[ccga3359]

I also prefer two, but my new USA Kilt has three and it doesn't bother me. The third does seem superfluous, and I have to remember to fasten it.

It shouldn't be too difficult removing it, nerve wracking after you sixth coffee of the day but not difficult.

[Riverkilt]

I like the three straps for the "look." I don't like wearing a belt with a kilt with straps, think it looks nicer and certainly feels more comfortable to my oversized gut.

I think the third strap helps the kilt look more like what folks expect a kilt to look like. But that's just my aged mind's logic.

Ron

[M. A. C. Newsome]

Just a quick answer to the original question. If a reputable kiltmaker is advertising "pure new wool" in their kilts, chances are that it is worsted. It used to be that you could either have your kilt made from worsted wool or saxony. I don't know any tartan mill that is producing saxony cloth these days, so as long as the kiltmaker is getting their cloth from one of the standard suppliers of tartan (i.e. Lochcarron, or House of Edgar, not JoAnne's fabric), it's going to be worsted.

The only exception would be Regimental weight cloth, which is a worsted/saxony blend.

To answer your second question about the straps, click below:
http://kiltmaker.blogspot.com/2005/0...lt-straps.html