Hand Tailored

[Nick Fiddes]

I'd add that hand-sewn is not necessarily better. Some people prefer the more 'natural' uneven-ness that comes with a totally hand-stitched garment. Others prefer the more precise lines that 'hand-machined' sewing gives (and with these garments there are always at least fiddly bits done by hand). Both involve lots of expertise and lots of effort (when done properly). But the finished result is largely a matter of taste. That's why on most of our kilts we offer the option of either, so the purchaser can specify their preference.

[The Wizard of BC]

Nick, can you expand on the statement - the more 'natural' uneven-ness that comes with a totally hand-stitched garment.

I'm not sure what you are referring to.

[Phil]

I'd add that hand-sewn is not necessarily better. Some people prefer the more 'natural' uneven-ness that comes with a totally hand-stitched garment. Others prefer the more precise lines that 'hand-machined' sewing gives (and with these garments there are always at least fiddly bits done by hand). Both involve lots of expertise and lots of effort (when done properly). But the finished result is largely a matter of taste. That's why on most of our kilts we offer the option of either, so the purchaser can specify their preference.

I couldn't agree more - I once had a kilt made by a very well known Edinburgh firm (not Kiltstore I must add). I paid extra for a hand stitched job and what I got was an inferior and botched kilt where the pleats did not sit properly and the stitching was crudely done. And this was a top price kilt (£400+) from an Edinburgh firm who describe themselves as kiltmakers to the Royal family! Their head seamstress told me they no longer had anybody with the skill to make a proper hand-sewn kilt but they were happy to take the money nevertheless.
So don't think what you pay necessarily gets you top quality. I do know how a properly made kilt should look but heaven help some poor novice who would probably accept such inferior goods.

[The Wizard of BC]

Nick, I now think I know what you were talking about. My problem with trying to understand comes from the example of hand-stitched kilts I own, have seen and made.

I regard a hand-stitched kilt to be far superior in aesthetics because I was taught the the stitches should be completely invisible. This was the beauty of them. There are no lines of stitching for anyone to complain about.

To me the less pleasing aesthetic is a machine-sewn kilt where each and every line of stitching is visible and in some cases distracting to the Tartan.

My Tewksbury appears to be a single piece of fabric across the entire Fell area. This is my example and goal I strive to with every hand-sewn I have done. There are also no stitches visible anywhere else on the kilt with the one exception of the stitches of the leather straps.

I guess I can understand that some people would prefer to see multiple lines of machine stitching on their kilts. The stitching on my Contemporary Kilts is done with a machine and is visible. In fact we have done kilts with contrasting stitching to enhance the effect.

My Traditional Kilts all have not one visible stitch. This is to me what a Traditional should look like. But I'm not the kilt cops and others sense of aesthetics is not my worry.