Waist Placement

**Howard Clark** · 24th February 08, 12:42 PM

I actually prefer trousers with the high waist like a proper traditional kilt, IF I can find them. Usually only in military uniform pants from pre 1960's, or in dress pants. The rise is not high enough in most pants to get to my natural waist, which sort of irks me, actually. It was not always so. Get out your old Bogie movies and check out the trousers in them. Everyone wore their pants at the natural waist then, even with blue jeans. It is only since the 1960's that things have fallen down to the hip bone for the waist band.

When I was 26 and had a 30" waist, jeans around my hips were fine. Now I'm 46, and have a bit more belly to deal with (though I am not fat by most american's standards) it does not feel comfortable at all to have what belly I do have hanging over the top of the waistband, whether it is a a kilt or trousers makes no difference.

I am firmly in the camp of "high at your natural waist" is the way to wear the kilt. Of course others do have different opinions, obviously.

**beloitpiper** · 24th February 08, 12:49 PM

Barb, those are good looking kilts. And great advice too!!

**The Wizard of BC** · 24th February 08, 01:24 PM

Here are some notes from a Contemporary Style Kiltmaker on waist height.

1) If you are "A Gentleman of Substance" try wearing your kilt high. The apron falling from the front of the stomach has a very slimming effect.

2) If you have a long torso and shorter legs wear the kilt higher. It helps balance the overall look.

3) If you are very young and very slim you can wear your kilt at low rise but on most of us it makes the kilt look too short and "skirty". The length of the pleats helps the kilt hang and move better and with a low rise the pleats look too short.

4) If you plan to wear a sporran and wide kilt belt wear the waist as high as you can. These items shorten the overall look and lead to the kilt looking short. The low rise, with a sporran also means the sporran is worn under the belly where it puckers the aprons making them look unsightly.

I go over some of these points in the video I did on how to measure for a Contemporary Kilt.
I try to get all of my customers except the young into a kilt where the waist is at least riding on top of the hip bones. This puts the belt buckle at the naval. I personally like mine to be a wee bit higher because I have a long torso. So I find that when worn any lower than the naval there is not enough Fell area to give a good appearance to the back of the kilt.

I think we need to quit thinking of where the front of the kilts waistband is and start thinking about where it is in the back. The back of the kilt should tuck into the back of the spine. This keeps the kilt in place when you move, holds the sporran strap in place, and gives a slimming look to the kilt.

My advice is to get the waist high enough that the Fell, or sewn-down and tapered area, is as long as you can. If you look at some of the photos, and especially Barb's, it is the Fell that gives the distinct "look" to a kilt that we all like.

**Big Mikey** · 24th February 08, 01:59 PM

As has been stated above, there is a distinct difference in where you wear your kilt. As a "gentleman of substance", I now go for a higher waistline. Yes, it did take a bit to get used to but it is now my preferred style. See below for a comparison.

This is a low rise style, casual kilt. It is very comfortable but it does nothing to improve my appearance. It should be stated that the maker did try to talk me into a higher waist style but I was stubborn. This is also my first made-to measure kilt.

This is a dress kilt made to be worn higher at the waist. The waistband lands just below my ribs. You can see the slimming effect by the higher placement.

Lastly, this is a ready made kilt. It is worn at midrise, between hips and ribs. I only wear it at this height so the hem falls properly.

I must say that all my kilts are comfortable and get lots of wear. Any kilts I have made now are at least midrise, probably due to midlife vanity but there's a lot to be said for the comfort factor.

**Chef** · 24th February 08, 09:04 PM

Mike that is a great comparison.

**string** · 24th February 08, 09:16 PM

I do not yet have a kilt nor have I worn one (unless you count when I tried on Yeti's to discover it went around me an extra time) but I find that any sort of waistband on my natural waist constricts my breathing (I'm a belly breather, like everybody should) and also irritates my old surgery scars. When I make me a kilt, I'll be fitting it closer to my hips.

**Chef** · 24th February 08, 09:48 PM

String, if the kilt is worn at high and you have trouble breathing then it's too tight. The proper taper of a hand-made kilt is fitted to the body in such a way that it can be worn comfortably.

**northernsky** · 24th February 08, 10:09 PM

Excellent advise all. Thanks especially to Barb (gotta say once again what great kilts those are) and BIG Mikey (great photo lesson!).

**string** · 25th February 08, 07:06 AM

Originally Posted by Chef

String, if the kilt is worn at high and you have trouble breathing then it's too tight. The proper taper of a hand-made kilt is fitted to the body in such a way that it can be worn comfortably.

Perhaps, but they still irritate my scars that high.