Welcome,from Inverness-shire. I cannot speak from any other angle than the traditional kilt wearing Scot one,but I am quite sure there will be plenty of good advice about other styles of kilt before long.

Traditional kilts do start at about the bottom rib height and as your kilt was not made for you you may have had to move it up a wee tad to make the bottom edge,hang no lower than the centre of your knee cap.It would be even better if the bottom edge was to hang at the top of the knee cap.

Finding tartan above 16oz maybe 18oz is not easy,so as a general rule 16oz is regarded as the heavy weight tartan these days.Wool is my view is quite the best fabric for the kilt. If I were you, for your next kilt, go for a 16oz wool cloth,it will help with the Chicago wind problem too.

Others will advise differently and they will have valid points to make.The choice will be yours,but remember --have fun.