Newbie Post and some Q's

**inkrat** · 11th April 08, 03:39 AM

Killing two birds with one stone here.

Hello folks...

I'm in Chicago, have worn kilts for about 7 years now. Been looking around to compliment my 8yd 18oz regimental kilt (heavy! but fits great) with something more casual. I originally purchased it as a military surplus auction on eBay, didn't get it right the first time and got the next size up... and it fits great. Unfortunately I'm not exactly sure about the sizing anymore.

Been looking around for info and cross referencing stuff, came across this site and followed a few of the threads... trying to get a better idea of what I'm looking at here.

While I love my regimental kilt, there's a few things I'm hoping to avoid for my next one (while there's also a few things I'm hoping to retain). The regimental kilt of mine starts just right below my ribs, so that's a bit high if I'm going to be wearing it with a tucked in shirt, for example. It measures 26" total, and from what I gather... most lower sitting kilts are about 24" total and my pants beltline to knees is 22", thankfully putting me right smack on the default lengths for a lot of what I see online that only offer waist sizes.

What I'm looking for is something with enough weight to it so that it will keep itself down. (I'm in Chicago, wind can be a problem.

Also hoping to get something that isn't going to be so soft that it would end up falling/folding into creases (between the legs, my ****) too easily. I'd like something dense and not fluffy like. Fabric should curve between the legs and not drop into them. (Does this make sense?)

Unfortunately I had considered getting a Sportskilt (gotta admit, the features are nice) but have since decided against it based on what some folks here have said here. This seems to be exactly what I'm not looking for when it comes to fabric type, weight and density.

I'd also prefer to have a full apron front... while I like the updated and more casual styles (like the UK's), they're just not quite what I'm looking for. Belt loops would be nice as my regimental one doesn't have any.

I would also like to avoid spending too much for something that would essentially be treated like a pair of jeans... I'm getting tired of being too paranoid and protective of my other kilt whenever I go out with it on.

From what I gather from this forum, Stillwater seems to come highly recommended. I'm still having some trouble knowing what to expect between their Standard (acrylic, I assume) and Heavyweight (probably closer to what I'm looking for) kilts... I'm not sure if acrylic is something I'd be happy with. Can anyone elaborate on what to expect from this kind of material in kilts?

USAKilts also looks great, but with the casual model (I hope I'm wrong here) it looks like the fabric could be about as thin as the Sportskilt ones I've seen. Hard to tell from the pictures. Anything higher up (Semi traditional) puts me out of the casual price range.

Pittsburgh don't seem to be making kilts anymore. It's a shame. I really liked some of the ideas involved... (TWO TONE!)

Another one I caught online, TheFrugalCorner, but theirs are acrylic as well, and again, not sure if that's a type of material I'd be happy with.

Would love to hear what you guys have to say based on what I appear to be looking for.

Cheers!
James

**Jock Scot** · 11th April 08, 04:08 AM

Welcome,from Inverness-shire. I cannot speak from any other angle than the traditional kilt wearing Scot one,but I am quite sure there will be plenty of good advice about other styles of kilt before long.

Traditional kilts do start at about the bottom rib height and as your kilt was not made for you you may have had to move it up a wee tad to make the bottom edge,hang no lower than the centre of your knee cap.It would be even better if the bottom edge was to hang at the top of the knee cap.

Finding tartan above 16oz maybe 18oz is not easy,so as a general rule 16oz is regarded as the heavy weight tartan these days.Wool is my view is quite the best fabric for the kilt. If I were you, for your next kilt, go for a 16oz wool cloth,it will help with the Chicago wind problem too.

Others will advise differently and they will have valid points to make.The choice will be yours,but remember --have fun.

**Jerry** · 11th April 08, 04:17 AM

Welcome to Xmarks. First of all, "Right below the ribs" is about right for a regimental kilt, as long as the length at the knee is right (anywhere from mid knee to the top of the knee) Secondly, the standard weight Stillwater kilts are fine. The economy is a little light, but for wear around the house, it is fine. I don't have a Stillwater Thrifty yet, so I can't comment on those. My one USA is a semi traditional, so I don't know a lot about the casual model, but others who have them really like them. Stillwaters are "off the rack kilts", and I believe the sizes are measured at the tightest hole in the strap. USA kilts (even the casuals) are custom made to your measurements, and Rocky is great to deal with. I would recommend calling him for measurement instructions if you order one. Since you were looking at Pittsburgh Kilts. try Steve Ashton at Freedom Kilts. He doesn't do the two tone kilts (of course he might do a special order if you ask him), and he has a great "Kilt Measuring " video on his website. All of Steve"s kilts are also custom made. Frugal Kilts has had some service issues in the past, but it looks like he is straighting things out now, and will soon be providing the kind of service everyone wants. Sport kilt is also good for a knock around kilt. I have two that I alternate wearing daily around my place, but I don't wear them into town. Over all, my choices would be, USA or Freedom kilts, for custom fitted, and Stillwater, for off the rack and lightning fast delivery. I have 3 Stillwaters, and the longest delivery time was 4 days. I ordered it on a Saturday night and got it on Tuesday afternoon. The others took 3 days.

**Roan Carter** · 11th April 08, 04:29 AM

I've worn a Sport Kilt and a Stillwater Standard in Chicago before. The Sport Kilt is entirely too lightweight for city wear, when the wind flies around street corners like mad. Stillwater Standards are okay, but I still recommend a sporran just to keep your front down for sure.

I have not ordered from the Frugal Corner, but I can say I have read that their service is sometimes great and sometimes not. Be prepared to wait a while on a kilt from them.

Also, military kilts from What Price Glory are nicely priced and come in 24" length.

**McMathTX** · 11th April 08, 04:38 AM

Welcome from Fort Worth! I'll be watching this thread with interest because I'm wondering many of the same things as you.
Dean

**McNulty** · 11th April 08, 04:55 AM

SWK has a great line for the money. The standards are acryllic, cool in the summer (even in the Chi-town humidity) and very versatile. The heavyweights are wool and are great for all year round wear (though not sure how a 16oz wool would feel in heat AND humidity). Both work great for me here in Colorado. We used to live in Chicago (Glenview) and moved out here 5 years ago. I currently have 5 SWK standards I use for everyday wear and for hiking, 2 SWK heavyweights for school(dressy) and a couple of 16oz wool custom mades for really dressing up. I, like a lot of Xmarkers, had a bad experience with Frugal Coroner service and I will stay away from using them again. You can't go wrong with any of the companies that advertise on XMTS, but I really like the best bang for the buck from SWK, and Jerry's service is incredible.
Oh, and Welcome from the Western Slope!
Nulty

**cacunn** · 11th April 08, 05:23 AM

Welcome to X-Marks. I have a SWK Thrifty, USA Kilts casual and Semi-traditional. I would say the SWK Thrifty may be a little light for the wind off the lakes. I like it and find it good for warm days around town. Both of the USA Kilts are excellent, (well so is the SWK for the price) and I think both would work for you the Semi-trad is a little heavier made to measure fits great. The USA casual is made to a waist measurement as are SWK's Thrify with a generic taper. I think the Poly-Viscus material used by USA is better able to handle abuse than the SWK.

I have seen but not worn the SWK wool kilts and they look good for the price, but for what I understand you are looking for I would recommend Kelly and Rocky at USA Kilts.

If you are looking for multiple buys check out some of the non-tartan kilts such as Freedom Kilts. I don't own a commercial non-tartan, but, I love the one I made using a modified X-Marks pattern.

So many choices so little money.

**MacMillan of Rathdown** · 11th April 08, 05:55 AM

Originally Posted by Jock Scot

Traditional kilts do start at about the bottom rib height and as your kilt was not made for you you may have had to move it up a wee tad to make the bottom edge,hang no lower than the centre of your knee cap.It would be even better if the bottom edge was to hang at the top of the knee cap.

Finding tartan above 16oz maybe 18oz is not easy,so as a general rule 16oz is regarded as the heavy weight tartan these days.Wool is my view is quite the best fabric for the kilt. If I were you, for your next kilt, go for a 16oz wool cloth,it will help with the Chicago wind problem too.

I have to agree with Jock Scot-- wool is quite the best fabric for the kilt. If you are worried about stains and such there are two options, both of which I can recommend from personal experience. First, have the apron of your kilt professionally ScotchGuarded. 90% of all "accidents" will wipe off without leaving a trace. For the other 10% wear an apron over the front of the kilt.

The last one I had (lost it in the most recent move) was tall enough to tuck into the top of the kilt, and was secured on each side by passing the kilt straps through a slit (like a button hole) on each side of the canvas apron. This looked good with the kilt in casual/work environments and being ScotchGuarded would repel everything except Vikings!

**inkrat** · 11th April 08, 05:58 AM

Originally Posted by Jock Scot

Traditional kilts do start at about the bottom rib height and as your kilt was not made for you you may have had to move it up a wee tad to make the bottom edge,hang no lower than the centre of your knee cap.It would be even better if the bottom edge was to hang at the top of the knee cap.

Finding tartan above 16oz maybe 18oz is not easy,so as a general rule 16oz is regarded as the heavy weight tartan these days.Wool is my view is quite the best fabric for the kilt. If I were you, for your next kilt, go for a 16oz wool cloth,it will help with the Chicago wind problem too.

Fortunately, even though the kilt was off the rack, the one I have now fits well. I've even had people ask me if it was tailor made. So yes, it begins at just below the ribs and ends right on the middle of the kneecap. 26" total length, pants belt/waist to mid knee is 22.5". My big issue is knowing the waist, some seem to measure by last hole in the buckles, some measure by first hole. I ran a tape around my pants inside the belt loops, 35" loose, 33" snug. I wear 32"'s, or so the lying pants industry wants me to believe. ;) Hopefully I should be okay with a 34"

I guess my big question is, would 16oz still be a bit too heavy/warm for spring/summer wearing? I know the one I have certainly is and it's an 18. Next step down would be a 13 and I only seem to find those in acrylic, which is a shame, because I really like wool myself.

Originally Posted by Jerry

Welcome to Xmarks. First of all, "Right below the ribs" is about right for a regimental kilt, as long as the length at the knee is right (anywhere from mid knee to the top of the knee) Secondly, the standard weight Stillwater kilts are fine. The economy is a little light, but for wear around the house, it is fine. I don't have a Stillwater Thrifty yet, so I can't comment on those. My one USA is a semi traditional, so I don't know a lot about the casual model, but others who have them really like them. Stillwaters are "off the rack kilts", and I believe the sizes are measured at the tightest hole in the strap. USA kilts (even the casuals) are custom made to your measurements, and Rocky is great to deal with. I would recommend calling him for measurement instructions if you order one. Since you were looking at Pittsburgh Kilts. try Steve Ashton at Freedom Kilts. He doesn't do the two tone kilts (of course he might do a special order if you ask him), and he has a great "Kilt Measuring " video on his website. All of Steve"s kilts are also custom made.

My biggest concern with custom made at this moment is being able to get the size right, video or not. Was thinking it might be a good idea to start with off the rack due to a more friendly exchange policy until I'm sure and then get myself another that's custom made.

Originally Posted by Roan Carter

I've worn a Sport Kilt and a Stillwater Standard in Chicago before. The Sport Kilt is entirely too lightweight for city wear, when the wind flies around street corners like mad. Stillwater Standards are okay, but I still recommend a sporran just to keep your front down for sure.

Standards are acrylic, are they any more or less desirable than all-wool? Unfortunately Stillwater doesn't offer much to say on the weights of the Standards versus the Heavyweights. This was where I wanted to ask you guys what you thought of them personally since a few of you probably are familiar with the regimental fitting and weights.

Oh, and I annoyed my roommate into handing over the camera with the images he took of me when I was getting ready to head out for St Pat's. (He was afraid I'd try to delete the images. Heh.)

I'm not fond of 'em but at least you can see how high this one goes.

http://ergh.org/photos/self/mekilt1.jpg
http://ergh.org/photos/self/mekilt2.jpg

New Zealand regimental, for those wondering. Variation of the Black Watch pattern.

Thanks for the warm welcomes and tolerance of my newbie questions. ;)

**McFarkus** · 11th April 08, 06:04 AM

from Rogers Park on Chicago's North side. I have two SWK heavyweights which are great, and one Thrifty in Irish National that I bought just for St. Pat's. Have had no problems with any of them. But for the wind - always wear a kilt pin. I also always wear a sporran which helps keep the kilt apron down in the wind.

I'm not fond of 'em but at least you can see how high this one goes.

Doesn't look so high for a standard kilt, or especially a military kilt. You might get a wide kilt belt, like the ones Steve Frazier makes over at Oconee Leather Works. Worn at the "true" waist (above the hips) this will make the kilt look less long.