Quote Originally Posted by ThreadBbdr View Post
I would say at least 1960s era, maybe older. The weave is, as I mentioned above, softer and has the 'old school' selvage. It's a single length, and I suspect the fabric may be hand loomed or at least done on the Victorian kilt looms.
If you are comparing this to kilts made in the last few years, the selvage edge looks a LOT different. See how on your kilt, the thread wraps around the edge more loosely? That's because the modern looms pack two threads in the space on the selvage that one thread would occupy on a handloom or the older kilt looms. I think I'd like this edge better overall. I wish it was still the standard.
Hmm - this doesn't look like hand loomed tartan to me. What am I missing? Karla - I realize that you are an expert on textiles. Can you tell us why it looks hand loomed to you?

As far as the selvedge goes, there are two mills that currently weave the old-fashioned perfect selvedge - D.C. Dalgliesh and House of Edgar. So, not all tartan is currently being woven with a turned selvedge on a rapier loom. I've made three kilts already this year with tartan that has a selvedge just like the one on the kilt you're fixing, and I'm getting read to make two more.