Swirling apron

[Alan H]

I've only run across this issue a couple of times, and it was only problematic on one kilt...a stillwater Standard, which was their old model standard, now more-or-less the same as their budget kilt. I never solved it.

The reason that the edges curl forwards is probably pretty simple. The apron isn't wide enough. Now, how to fix that once the kilt is made......

[Pleater]

I do reverse Kingussie kilts, and like to have the under apron pleats, and good big ones too, as it means I can climb over obstacles easily and the apron falls modestly when sitting down too.

Is the problem that the pleat is rolling outwards rather than folding on the line you expected?

I get that all the time, or would do if I did not draw up the inner fold of the pleat above the edge of the apron and let it settle so there is a triangle of the pleat visible up above the apron. I tack it and check that it is right by wearing it around the house before sewing it permanently. I sew on the waistband leaving that pleat free, press the band and sew it down on the inside over the small pleats, so the kilt is almost finished. When I finish the waistband the triangle can be folded over inside the band if it is so narrow it can be left flat.

Usually the inner fold needs to be raised 1/2 or 1/3 of an inch for me.

If your kilt is wool I think that you could run a thread along the fold for a few inches, draw it up so it is slightly gathered and then press it, which would have the same sort of effect without having to undo the waistband.

With other fabric you might be able to make a horizontal dart just below the waistband to take out the excess.