Jim and Hamish's "Scotland 2008" Tour

**Hamish** · 25th June 08, 10:49 AM

Leaving Aberfeldy by General Wade's bridge, we took a quiet and probably more picturesque road to Kenmore, a delightfully unspoiled village with an exceptionally wide main street:

The village church being at one end and the imposing gateway to Taymouth Castle, once home to the Campbells of Breadalbane, at the other.

The castle was long since sold - its Deer Park is now a Golf Club and its buildings now converted to holiday apartments and cottages!
Having revived some of his early memories of Kenmore, we then drove along the northern banks of Loch Tay to Fearnan, a small hamlet with many new houses built since Jim's family moved south to Somerset over 50 years ago. In spite of the changes, he found the house in which he was born and spent his very early years, but he chose not to knock on the door. A few minutes of mixed emotions and we were on our way again. We stopped at Killin to look at the famous Falls of Dochart, and to savour a cool drink at the nearby pub, but the doors were locked (at 11.40am)!! In disgust, we drove on through Glen Ogle to Lochearnhead and along the banks of Loch Earn to Comrie, where we bought sandwiches and very welcome freshly squezed Orange juice.

Approximately 25 miles later we reached Crieff, an unimpressive wee town that had obviously known better times! However, on its southern outskirts we came across a modern development with a large Waterford/Stuart Crystal retail outlet (from which I could not emerge empty-handed!), and across the road, the headquarters of The Scottish Tartans Authority of which I am a Life Member. Several weeks earlier, I had been in touch with Brian Wilton there to check that he might be 'in residence' should we drop in. He was and we did, and what a very pleasant and welcoming man he is. Jim and I were surprised to find him not in a kilt, but casual t------s! His excuse being that he spends all day sitting at a desk, meeting very few people unless he is on official business elsewhere, and so finds t------s more practical - an explanation we reluctantly accepted! Brian is a busy man who seems to run the day-to-day administration and, I suspect more than that, virtually single-handed. He told us that he is hopeful that the new Scottish Government's involvement with the creation of an official tartans register, will provide funding for Brian to have assistance in his work, and I hope that comes soon - he deserves it. A quick photo:

and we were once again on our way. This time, at Brian's suggestion, heading north from Crieff through the spectacular Small Glen and then taking a seldom used, single-track road cross country back to Kenmore. What a treat to the eye this proved to be; wild, open mountainsides with sheep roaming everywhere, amazing views and the narrow road which plunged and climbed at every turn. It might hve been a bit of a challenge for the driver (poor Jim) but he managed it all with his usual behind-the-wheel talent. From Kenmore, we retraced our morning route back to Pitlochry where we were just in time to catch MacNaughton's rather well-known shop before they closed for the day. Jim resisted some of the temptations with greater strength than did I, who came away with four pairs of kilt hose, a pair of flashes, a new CD by Ally Bain and Phil Cunningham (my favourite Scottish musicians) - oh, and a classy Clan fridge magnet! We eat that evening at a popular restaurant in the town, having to wait about 45 minutes for a table - The Auld Smiddy Inn.

To be continued.

**Hamish** · 25th June 08, 10:50 AM

Saturday was the day we were to leave The Highlands and drive back from Pitlochry to Dumfries for our final night in Scotland. The route I had planned was virtually as straightforward as the road system would allow: the A9 skirting Perth and Stirling, the Motorways avoiding Glasgow, and then the M74 southwards in the general direction of Dumfries. Although no sightseeing had been planned, by the time we were approaching Stirling, we realised that we were ahead of time and decided to visit the castle there - which neither of us had done before. Unfortunately, we wasted time and increasingly expensive petrol by failing to see a small sign in the town that would have directed us up to the castle (we later discovered that it had been hit by a passing vehicle and could not be seen from the street!), so it was not long before we found ourselves emerging from the other side of Stirling! Undaunted, we drove back into the centre and eventually found our way to the castle esplanade and parked.

Stirling castle is interesting but, in our opinions, has the appearance and feeling of being not quite real or authentic. Whilst the exteriors of its buildings are imposing, especially from below the rock on which the castle stands, so much of it has been renovated or restored, particularly the interior of the Chapel Royal which looked as if it had been built within the past five years - everything was so new, there was absolutely no atmosphere of antiquity or of the history of the place. We both thought it like a film set. Such a shame. The views from the castle are quite spectacular, such as this one looking out to the Wallace Monument:

In spite of the misgivings, we are pleased we visited, but doubt that either of us will be rushing back.
From Stirling, we resumed the uneventful drive back to Dumfries, where Robertson, Emma, 'Taffie' and 'Riley' afforded us another Ferintosh welcome. Niall ('Niblox') had also just arrived hot-foot from Edinburgh in readiness for the Kilts Nicht planned for the evening.

To be continued.

**Hamish** · 25th June 08, 10:55 AM

It so happened that, early that evening, before the Kilts Nicht was timed to begin, a contingent from The Royal Regiment of Scotland freshly returned from duty in Iraq, along with the battalion's pipes and drums, was to march through Dumfries before being granted the 'Freedom of Dumfries and Galloway'.

[The granting of a "Freedom" is an ancient civic custom whereby worthy individuals (or, less commonly, groups) are recognised by local authorities for their outstanding contributions to society. Apart from the formality of the event, I am not aware that any tangible award is made, apart from the usual Scroll, or Certificate, being handed over. It once was the case that a 'Freeman' would be permitted to drive his sheep unhindered through the town or burgh which made the award, but I doubt that still applies!]

Not wanting to miss anything, Robertson, Niall, Jim and I, leaving Emma to hold The Ferintosh fort, dashed off and just caught the official inspection of the contingent before the march-off. Note that Black Watch tartan belts are worn, except by the pipers and drummers who have Royal Stewart belts to match the bag covers of the pipes.

The Regimental Colours are escorted through the streets:

Then it was back to The Ferintosh for a wee gathering before setting off to The Cavens Arms for our meal, and the start of the evening's jollities.

To be continued.

**Hamish** · 25th June 08, 10:58 AM

Once there, our number swelled to a splendid eleven. Mine host at The Cavens had obviously tried to overfeed some of us who were, perhaps keen to get drinking:

The rabble leaves the Cavens Arms ...............

.............. and then The New Bazaar .............

and then heads off for The Coach and Horses

An unscheduled stop was made at a pub (whose name I forget, if ever I saw or heard it!) en route to The Globe.

At The Globe:"I already have one, thanks .......... but, if you insist!"

Can anyone else drink simultaneously from two glasses? No? Nor can I!!!

High jinks outside The Globe, our last port of call before going off to find our respective beds for the night.

Next morning, Sunday 8th June, all bright-eyed and bushy-tailed after another of Robertson's superb breakfasts, we pose for a final group shot. Shortly after this, Niall was heading back to Edinburgh whilst Jim and I set off for the 400 mile drive back to England's southern counties, leaving Robertson, Emma and the dugs to pick up the pieces!

What a week we had! Jim and I so appreciated the warm welcomes we received, the wonderful folks we met, the new friendships we formed - and that especial something that makes Scotland such an incredibly unique place. Thank you everyone, and thank you Scotland.

Take care,
Ham.