If you want to lessen the bulk by cutting out the pleats, do so down to about 1" above the bottom of the fell. After you are done, put a line of steaking about 1/2" above the bottom of the fell. Then you can add your interfacing. I usually sew my interfacing and it covers up the ratty part of where you cut the pleats. I then add a layer of broadcloth to insulat the wearer from the interfacing.












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