I dont pin the plaid to the jacket at all. My plaid has enough fabric bunched and pleated far enough back from the corner to perfectly fit beneath my epaulet without much looseness, then is held in place simply by the wieght of the plaid brooch pulling down in front fairly balancing the weight of the fabric aft of the epaulet. I think it ruins the fabric to pin through either the jacket lapel or front. If the brooch is not enough weight to balance then perhaps sewing osme curtain wieghts into the front of the pleats might be an option, but I have never needed to.