"Flipping" pleat

[Bugbear]

I would like to get some help with this. I thought bringing up this old thread would be better than starting a new one. I just purchased a B&S casual and I am having this pleat flipping problem. I realized it is just as Barb described. Min is pressed parallel to a tartan stripe. I am not sure how to steam out the original and press in a new one. I have never steamed anything before. Could someone give me some more details about this?

Brice

From what kind of fabric is your kilt made: wool, wool blend, other?

Steeking.

[bricelythgoe]

From what kind of fabric is your kilt made: wool, wool blend, other?

Steeking.

It is wool from Burnetts and Struth.

Brice

[Bugbear]

It is wool from Burnetts and Struth.

Brice

I was writing up what I did on mine, then I realized that I am not so good at explaining things. It will require at least a steam iron and press cloth.

I think Barb or the Wizard should explain it and walk you through it. You might PM either of them.

Good luck.

[Barb T]

I would like to get some help with this. I thought bringing up this old thread would be better than starting a new one. I just purchased a B&S casual and I am having this pleat flipping problem. I realized it is just as Barb described. Min is pressed parallel to a tartan stripe. I am not sure how to steam out the original and press in a new one. I have never steamed anything before. Could someone give me some more details about this?

Brice

First! Your kilt may not need a flare. Check to see whether the apron edge is parallel to a tartan stripe from the top edge to the bottom of the fell (i.e., the stitched part of the left apron edge). If it is straight, parallel to a stripe, then you don't want to press in any flare. If there is some taper at the apron edge in the fell, you can re-press the rest of the edge with a taper.

Set the iron to wool and be sure that the iron has water in it for steam. Lay the kilt on the ironing board, wrong side up. Open up the left apron edge, lay it as flat as you can, and press (don't "iron" - i.e., press down not slide). Once you have taken most of the crease out, flip the kilt over, smooth it out, and lay a damp dish towel or pillow cloth on the tartan, and press again. This will help take that last bit of crease out. I didn't have you use a press cloth on the inside, because I wanted to be sure that you could see exactly what you were doing when you took most of the crease out. You don't want to accidently add a crease.

Let the kilt cool, and put it on. While you are looking straight ahead, have someone pin the edge of the apron where the kilt "wants" to fold. Take the kilt off, and baste a smooth curve along the edge of the apron. Take biggish stitches (1/2" or so), and take the time to do this - don't just skip to the pressing step. Put the kilt back on, and see if you like it. If not, try again. Once you're happy with it, get out the press cloth, and press it in. Just be sure not to muck up the rest of the pleats while you're doing it!

You may have to touch up the new crease with an iron fairly often. Wool can have a persistent memory....

[The Guy in the Kilt at UC]

I altered one my kilts for that very reason. What I did was repress the left apron pleat on a bias and sew a short hem on the one pleat underneath to hide it when I stand.

It worked out very well for me.

[Bugbear]

That is an interesting point. There is a small, tapered hem in that first inside fold coming off the apron. I had adjusted the apron before I put that hem in, so didn't think about it.

Guess if the apron fold is being moved enough, it might meet up with or pass that hem and be on the front of the top apron.

[bricelythgoe]

Well, I followed Barb's advice given to me on this thread. It took me over 2 hours this morning to do it, but it worked! Here is the before picture:



You can see the pleat flipping on the right of the kilt. It was the only thing that bugged me about the kilt. However, after a lot of pressing, here is the result:



Looks great! I found that there was a slight taper on the stitched part of the apron edge, but it went straight down after that. I just used that as a guide and made a new edge that tapered down. It was not as difficult as I thought it would be and it ended up great! Thanks for the help Barb!

Brice