When I went to my tailor to have a "real" kilt made, the only choice I was offered was in the tartan to be used. Apart from that there was no question that it would be knife pleated to the sett and that was what was delivered. I fully understand that others regard a box-pleated kilt as perfectly acceptable and even a low-cost alternative. As Jock has tried to put across, somewhat unsuccessfully it seems, the only style of kilt considered as authentic by any Scotsman is a tartan, knife-pleated kilt, predominately pleated to the sett with a few pleated to the line, although these would be regarded as a military style rather than a civilian one (i.e. the wearer got a cheapie from the military surplus store!). I imagine the actual yardage would vary depending upon the size of the sett and the wearer's waist size but a good indication of a quality kilt would be the depth of the pleats - 4 inches almost or the length of your fingers. Anything less is nothing more than a tartan skirt.