I wonder if the rigidity of the fabric is forcing the pleats into a lampshade effect - that is pushing the lower part of the pleat (which should hang free and vertical) outwards to continue the flare of the fell.

If so then cutting out the back of the pleat and sewing along the lower edge of the fell, ensuring that the pleats hung vertically from that edge should cure the problem.

If such a drastic removal of material is not possible then cutting out a narrow Vee of material at the lower edge of the fell should work. It will shorten the inner part of the pleat - the shape would be a < with the point towards the visible fold of each pleat.

It is mechanically the same as making a dart - except that to leave the material in place would probably result in the darts being visible

Wool is malleable and can be pressed into shape, but other fibres resist alteration, insisting on remaining as flat as possible and I suspect that is your problem with these kilts.

Anne the Pleater :ootd: