Lessons of a kilt maker - Splits

[ChattanCat]

Half Splits


I would like to share some of the knowledge that I have learned while kiltmaking. I have made about 30+ kilts and have asked questions to THE expert, Barb T. I have also had the opportunity to see pictures of the pleats that have been posted by those who have received my kilts.


The first kilt for this example was made with standard split between the front apron hips and the pleated section. The standard split is to have the hips in the apron ½” less and the pleats ½” more. This 1” difference works for most people that are slim or medium build. In the picture below, we have a man of substance, and the pleats are showing what I call a wave. There is too much material around the hips and the pleats don't hang as good as they should.





The problem with using the standard splits arises when you have a body type with a pronounced stomach, man of substance, etc. The stomach does not have to be that pronounced to have the concern that I have seen with the kilt fitting. So please don’t anyone be offended, I only try to give the best fit for every kilt owner.


After talking with Barb T. she recommends that you use less than 1”, and depending on the body type, use less than 1.5” I have used 0” split for the next kilt to the same person. Notice that the pleats now hang straight down and don't have the wave.





Hope this helps,
Cheers,

[HeathBar]

Were the two kilts photographed above of similar weighted material? Could you give an example of lets say someone with a 48" waist and 52" hips? I think that might help myself as well as other visualize this.

[ChattanCat]

Were the two kilts photographed above of similar weighted material? Could you give an example of lets say someone with a 48" waist and 52" hips? I think that might help myself as well as other visualize this.

Ok, for a 48" waist and 52" hips:

I would split the waist 25" for the apron and 23" for the pleats and even splits, 26" for the hips.

Now if you were extremely fit with a flat stomach and the same measurements (the hulk?) I would do the consider the following splits:

Waist 25 apron/23 hips (same as above)
Hips 25.5/26.5

[Barb T]

Hi Wally!

I'm so glad that you posted these pictures!!! You are absolutely spot on about this. Although "the wave" can come from bad pressing (i.e., not keeping the pleats the same width from the bottom of the fell to the bottom of the kilt), that's certainly not the case with your beautifully made kilts.

The only thing I'd say is that there appears to be a typo in this statement:

After talking with Barb T. she recommends that you use less than 1”, and depending on the body type, use less than 1.5” I have used 0” split for the next kilt to the same person.

I think you mean ...depending on the body type, use less than 0.5"...? For a slim guy, I'd never use more than an inch of differential, and I would only use a 1.5" differential for a woman with a big hip/waist difference. And I agree that, for a man of substance, an even hip split fore and aft is the ideal choice. And it actually doesn't hurt to add a half in or even an inch to the hip measurement before you do the split, so that the kilt has a bit more girth at the hips to hang better from the stomach.

And I agree with your splits for HeathBar's kilt.

[HeathBar]

Those weren't necessarily my measurements, just some number I pulled out of the air. I was just wanting to see the number in action. Thanks!

[ChattanCat]

Thanks for clearing that up Barb.

Kilt making suggestions:
If you have a waist >38", use .5" or less.
If you have a waist <38", use 1" or less.
If you are a woman with a large difference in the hips and waist, use 1.5"

and for those of you that have a waist of 38", guess it's a toss up.