Welcome, Mike M.

McMurdo's advice is the best you can get in a few words: best kilt you can afford.

My impression is that you're after a traditional look, and that the 8-yard-class, wool kilt is probably what will suit your taste the best. Others have mentioned the USAK semi-trad, which is also a fine-looking kilt (I have 3).

The available fabric weight may be determined by your choice of tartan.

Most of us would say that an 8-yard will feel about the same in 13- or 16-ounce fabric; however that depends on your personal thermostat. I wear wool kilt hose nearly year-round in South Carolina; but some folks can't bear any long hose when the heat and humidity get serious.

If you suffer in the heat, and your tartan is available in the Marton Mills PV used by USAK, you may want to consider the semi-trad as a first choice. In wool a 4 yard box pleat is well thought of. I'm making my first 4-yard, so I can't speak from experience.

It's hard to go wrong with either USAK or ScotWeb. Some of the offerings are all hand-made, some are all or partly machine-sewn. If the kilt is made to measure for you, it should fit well in any of those scenarios. Since USAK is in the Philly area, you may just want to establish a personal relationship with your kiltmaker, as Ron suggests.