Elements of a sett

[ChattanCat]

5 1/8" is a small sett. You need to determine what your pleat reveal will be. Let's say 3/4" at the hips. You need to determine what the taper is going to be, assume 27 pleats? Look at a pleat, does an element disappear? If so, then you need to adjust the pleat elements. You can align a pleat along an element's edge to use the other side of the pleat to taper.

[Dixiecat]

You mean like so?
(the elements are all equal, it's the camera angle that makes them appear to be bigger on the right)