Box or Knife Pleats?

[Lokishadow]

First off, apologies all, I'm sure this has been asked before, but I couldn't find it.

Which is better? Box or knife pleats?

In making my two kilts, I've noted that it's fairly easy to make knife pleats, but they suck up a lot more material than a box pleat (mathematically) would.

So, pros and cons? I noted that the X-kilt uses box pleats, and seems to be fine, and the author stated that box pleats were "traditional" for fitted kilts in the 1800's.

Which one drapes and fans better? which one holds its shape better? Which one really is easier to make? How about smaller box pleats (2 inches)? Would that hang oddly?

I'm still in my early days of kiltmaking, and I'm just now considering using box pleats because of the yardage savings.

Thanks in advance!
-Loki

[Eleazar]

Ooooo... this could be a good discussion.

As for me in my limited experience... read that "newbie kilt maker"... I can only give what advice I have.

I have made 2 of the X-Kilts with box pleats (can't thank Alan H. and the other contributers enough) and 4 of the X-Kilt Rev-K with knife pleats.

Most of this will probably come down to personal preference. I like them both for the way they look. I feel the knife pleats have better swing, however, I have seen a double box pleat that looked really nice and was supposed to have great swing.

I also enjoy making the Rev-K as it is easier to taper with the pleats getting fully sewn in place from waist to hem the first time. Knife pleats do use more material though... unless you make a double box pleat.

They both look nice but in their own ways. I say, if you are limited on material, go for the box pleat. You'll get some great experience and pick up a couple of techniques. Then get some more material... you know you will... and make the knife pleats. Then you'l have two kilts to choose from.

Just my 2 cents... Hope it helps.

[St. Amish]

I like knife pleats for their hang and movement. Box pleats don't "swish" the same. That said, I have seen two types of box pleats that DO swish, and neither of them looks like a beginner project. They are the military box pleat (knife pleats with a box pleat on the edge), and the double box pleat. Someone on this site sews the double. They look very nice and have more material, giving them better movement.

[jhockin]

another advantage ( in my, also beginning kiltmaker, opinion) for the box pleat: the pleats, in the fell, are not cut out - so: one can alter the kilt for expanding or skrinking waistline - or - add another 4 meters/yards, and make it into a full 8 yd knife pleat! ( This is what I did for my most recent: made a 4meter box-pleat - keeping open future option to 'expand' it into an 8 meter knife pleat "tank")

[MacKay71]

With the box pleat, it's cooler in the summer having less fabric.

[OC Richard]

knife pleats suck up a lot more material than a box pleat (mathematically) would.

I'm not sure I understand what you're saying there.

Seems to me that if you have two kilts made of Gordon tartan, and both are pleated to show the yellow line on each pleat, and both have pleats of the same width, and both have the same number of pleats, that exactly the same amount of tartan would be used. Each pleat would use one repeat of the tartan regardless of how the pleat is made. But... I've never made a kilt. Am I wrong?

The military kilts of the Argyll & Sutherland Highlanders, Cameron Highlanders, and Seaforth Highlanders (boxpleated), and of the Black Watch and Gordon Highlanders (knifepleated) all had a similar number and width of pleats and used a similar amount of yardage.

[M. A. C. Newsome]

I generally don't like these discussions about "which is better" comparing box pleats and knife pleats. These are simply two different pleating options for your kilt, both quite legitimate. Which one you think is "better" really boils down to personal style and preference.

I did a tutorial here on X Marks that goes into some detail on the differences, and why a person might be inclined to choose one over the other.
Click Here To Read

I just want to make the point that my above article is comparing a 4 yard box pleated kilt (which is the traditional style I make) to an 8 yard knife pleated kilt (which is the standard style of kilt today).

A lot of what people are mentioning above as differences between box pleats and knife pleats, such as the amount of movement in the pleats, and the comparitive coolness or lightness of the garment, has to do more with the amount of material used than the actual pleating style.

It is quite possible to have a box pleated kilt made from 6 yards or 8 yards, etc., as well as a knife pleats kilt made from 4 or 5 yards. To make a good comparision, one needs to stipulate how much yardage they are talking about in their kilt.

[DougC]

That answer is why, if I ever need another kilt, I will buy from one of the supporters of this site. I have a knife pleat becuase that is what my friend's mum made me. Neither is better or worse...just a matter of preference!

[piperdbh]

Neither is better or worse...just a matter of preference!

Bingo! You've hit the nail squarely on the head and driven it home.

Several years ago I commissioned a knife-pleat, which, at the time, was the only style of pleating I knew about. After a few more years of study, and a whole lot of X-Marksing, I chose to have my second kilt box-pleated. I then bought another box-pleat, because I liked it, and some time down the road, I have plans to design a tartan, and the kilt made from it will proabably be knife-pleated.

Which is better? The one I happen to be wearing at any given time.

[Tobus]

Which one drapes and fans better?

I am no kilt maker or expert, but it would seem fairly self-evident that the more material used, the more "drape" or "fan" you'll have. Smaller yardage kilts will only open up so much before the pleats are fully extended. But with deeper pleats, regardless of the style of pleat, more "fan" is possible.

My question, though, with regard to box pleats, is how you get more material into a kilt. My understanding (which is likely incorrect) is that the box pleats can only carry so much material in each pleat because they don't "overlap" each other. With knife pleats, you can put more material in it by simply making the pleats deeper in the overlapping portion and narrower in the exposed portion. But with box pleats, how would you do it? Does making the pleat size smaller end up using more material? Or would you have to go to a double box pleat?

I'm amazed and impressed by the knowledge from the kilt makers here, as well as thankful for their willingness to answer these types of questions.