Elements of a sett

[ChattanCat]

with a small sett of 5 1/8" sett I would pleat to the white stripe, then black, then white, then yellow, etc. A reveal of 3/4" should work but you should do a test pleating so you don't drop any elements as you taper from hips to waist.

[Dixiecat]

I would pleat to the white stripe, then black,

The 'black' is actually brown. A nice deep chocolate brown. As it is Dress Saskatchewan, I imagine the brown is for the colour of the rich prairie soil.

Will do up some test pleats and judge from there.