The 1822 Jacket

[artificer]

I could see that coatee in a deep claret tone (self coloured trim) with a deep bronze or even antiqued bronze/brass hardware.

Personally, I LOVE the idea of the coatee, and second JSFMACLJR's suggestion of looking into silk velvet over the cotton. If you're going to go, go all out. I'd say that a coatee like this should really SING.

[longhuntr74]

MacLL...great thoughts...and it wasn't derailing at all. It is exactly the type of feedback that I'm looking for with my inquiry.

I've never made a fully constructed/tailored garment, but the last weskit I made (1760s vintage) was darned close with interlining, real metal trim, hand sewn button holes, and such. I understand the principles and think I'm up to the task. Sure it may take me some trial and error and some "oh crap" moments, but that is part of the challenge. I like the appeal of having a truly unique garment that I can say "I made it" when asked.

I also have a very good friend that is an avid costumer and re-enactor to consult if needed. In fact, she said she has some swatches of silk velvets that I can check out. She wasn't positive, but she believes them to be a silk and cotton combo...or possibly even 100% silk...but I would think more likely the first based on the costs that I've seen for 100% silk velvet ($300+ per yard). In any case she's almost certain that it's 100% natural materials and no synthetics.

Regarding color...I expect to stick with dark blue, dark green, or deep purple with self colored, grey, or black trim. I'll just have to see what's available and what I like.

MacLL and Sandy...good inputs on the care of velvet! I'll consider wool...but I'm leaning towards velvet still.

[BoldHighlander]

MacLL...great thoughts...and it wasn't derailing at all. It is exactly the type of feedback that I'm looking for with my inquiry.

I've never made a fully constructed/tailored garment, but the last weskit I made (1760s vintage) was darned close with interlining, real metal trim, hand sewn button holes, and such. I understand the principles and think I'm up to the task. Sure it may take me some trial and error and some "oh crap" moments, but that is part of the challenge. I like the appeal of having a truly unique garment that I can say "I made it" when asked.

If you intend to make it yourself, I would advise first mocking it up in muslin, it saves on those "oh crap" moments (that could get quite expensive), or so I've been told by those who have 'been there, done that'.

[longhuntr74]

If you intend to make it yourself, I would advise first mocking it up in muslin, it saves on those "oh crap" moments (that could get quite expensive), or so I've been told by those who have 'been there, done that'.

Well of course...that's a given. pattern and fitting will not be an issue. There will be no expensive material cut until the pattern has been totally worked out.

The challenge, in my mind, will be the shaping of the breast padding/interlining and assembling things in the right order. I was reading some feedback from a lady that posted about her experiences in making a Victorian era tailcoat. One of her interesting observations was that in dressmaking, you are building the garment around a body/form. In making men's coats, you are building outward...meaning that the lining and interlining are the base of the garment and the outer fabric is simply a covering of that foundation. Sounds vaguely like...hmmm...what was it? Oh, I know....KILT CONSTRUCTION!!!!

[OC Richard]

It strikes my eye as a bit odd that an Archer Green doublet with white piping is being linked to the 1822 Royal visit.

In the famous painting of King George's 1822 visit, every visible figure in Highland Dress is wearing a tartan jacket.

They all look more or less like this:



And there still exists a tartan coatee made for the King's nephew for that event.

That MacKenzie-Frain Archer Green doublet with white piping strikes my eye as a civilian adaptation of the post-1840's regimental piper's doublet.

Here is the Archer Green doublet first introduced for the pipers of the 79th Foot/Cameron Highlanders in the 1840's, and still worn by some military and civilian pipe bands (though the Scottish regiments in Scotland haven't worn this style since 1953)

[longhuntr74]

Thanks for the heads up Richard. Knowing a bit about historical clothing styles, it did strike me as odd that it is collarless. I know that many coats in the mid 18th century were collarless, but through the late 18th century and early 19th century collars became popular....getting taller and taller through the years up until the Victorian era I believe.

That piece of trivia doesn't change my desire to reproduce this coat at all though. It wasn't my desire to reproduce a historically accurate coat. I just like the coat! I don't think we'll refer to it as "a copy of a coat worn in 1822" anymore.

[JSFMACLJR]

Perhaps you might like this doublet, which is similar in some ways, but, in my opinion, much nicer: