Prince Charlie advice

**Hothir Ethelnor** · 5th July 10, 08:47 AM

The Breamer Ghillie jacket looks like a 3 button version of the classic argyle jacket.

Since weddings are not usually black tie affairs (unless celebrated in the evening post 6 PM I believe) wearing a 3 button argyle is perfectly appropriate and some would recommend tweed vs the more formal barathea. I believe barathea is a particular weave. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barathea

If warmth is a consideration you could get a linen jacket and waistcoat made.

Either way I would heartily recommend the 3 button argyle look. The square buttons used in highland jackets are fasted through a "buttonhole" in the fabric with the small metal clips you mentioned so having it made for removable and swappable buttons is definitely possible and a very good idea.

**Cygnus** · 5th July 10, 10:28 AM

Originally Posted by Hothir Ethelnor

...
If warmth is a consideration you could get a linen jacket and waistcoat made.
...

Unless you're really worried about being too warm, I wouldn't recommend linen - it wrinkles too easily and (in my opinion) doesn't hang quite right.

The rest of Hothir's advice is spot on, though.

**fluter** · 5th July 10, 08:01 PM

Originally Posted by Cygnus

Unless you're really worried about being too warm, I wouldn't recommend linen - it wrinkles too easily and (in my opinion) doesn't hang quite right.

I was going to suggest using the best quality suiting you can afford, if you get it custom tailored. Your tailor might also make an off the rack Braemer/Argyll fit you properly.

One nice touch with these jackets is is to add a 3-button vest to cover black tie, and have the 5-button for necktie (or cravat) occasions. The 3-button, PC style just seems to go nicely with the black bow tie. I'm not sure it would be the same with a 3-button jacket, but it works with the familiar one-button Argyll and its relatives.

**hot_rod29** · 8th July 10, 08:34 AM

The weave of the Marino fabric actually matches my casual kilt exactly. Comparing the black square in my Black Stewart kilt to the cloth swatch, the weave is the same (my current kilt is a 13 oz casual, box pleat). The cloth swatch is just a deeper black color. Is this a good thing or should I really try to get a Barathea weave fabric? I plan on ordering a full 16oz, 8 yard in Stewart Hunting tartan soon and while the fabric might be an exact match for my casual kilt would it look odd with the other?

Is 12 oz fabric heavy enough for my needs? I'm growing used to seeing fairly substantial materials used for kilt jackets, and would rather not pay for tailoring something that will not look right in comparison.

Also, I see that none of the cuffs on these jackets appear to function. For me it is a personal quirk of taste but if I'm having something custom made I like for all parts of it to be functioning. Does anyone know how these cuffs are actually supposed to work?

**Hothir Ethelnor** · 8th July 10, 09:14 AM

If the weave of the fabric matches the tartan it is a 2/2 twill weave.

I don't know of any good reason why normal twill would be unacceptable for a formal jacket.

I am making a doublet from 11oz tartan so 12oz wool should work fine.

I am quite sure you can have your tailor make any of the cuff styles functioning. I do it to all my jackets and it is nice.

Instead of sewing the buttons onto the outside of the cuff you simply add button holes and sew the buttons to the sleeve underneath. If you are wanting a "Braemer" style cuff you might want the sleeve split up to the top of the cuff so that the cuff actually holds the end of the sleeve together.

Basically making working cuffs means more buttonholes and a little more work to finish some edges that wouldn't have shown if the cuff was sewn down.

**hot_rod29** · 8th July 10, 10:56 AM

Thanks for the fast response! Your points make sense, and it's nice to hear I shouldn't need to wait for ordering and shipping fabric.

I do understand what goes into making working cuffs on jackets, I guess my question was poorly phrased. How do the Prince Charlie style cuffs actually work? I see the flap of fabric that is stitched onto the sleeve. On a working cuff should that flap be sewn in at the seam and then wrap around the sleeve to the buttons? Should the jacket sleeve then be open from the end of the sleeve to the top of that flap, or higher? On the non working sleeves the flap is only one thickness of cloth, for a working version I assume it should be more for durability. And should the flap have a canvas inside? It's been awhile since I've seen a close up of a current PC sleeve.

Thanks for all the help!
jared

**Hothir Ethelnor** · 8th July 10, 12:01 PM

Prince Charlie cuffs are "Breamer" cuffs when added to an Argyll jacket.

I would make them with canvas, and either lined on the underside or with the same jacket fabric.

I would simply split the seam the cuff is normally tucked into slightly higher than where the cuff goes and use the cuff to hold the end of the sleeve together.