Opinions on a military jacket

[Zardoz]

I was thinking of the "So you're going to wear the Kilt" mods as well, but I didn't know the OP had a copy, so this is what we are looking at;


These ideas are based on the British combat, or "Ike" style jackets, cut I would guess to come 3 or so inches below the top of one's kilt.

Keeping in mind that everyone is built different, IMO I see the jacket in Manfrozeninaglacier's photo as being a little too short to mimic a military cut-away or civillian Argyll, and still a bit long for the Ike style. I'd think shortening it up a bit and adding a finished waistband would look good and should be high enough to cover the lower pocket issue.

[manfrozeninaglacier]

Regarding a waistband, should it be the same material as the jacket, or should it be the 2 inch thick elastic knit style waistband on "member's only" style jackets? Also, if I get a waistband put on, should the belt go over the waistband or under? I just picked up 2 more of the dress jackets so I can try numerous different configurations if I must. This is not as easy as the description in SYGTWTK!

[davidlpope]

I was trying to go for the style mentioned in the "So you're going to wear the kilt" appendix where he describes how to modify the jacket. I looked online to see any pictures of people that had done the modification, but could only find the Ike style jacket as a guide.

I think the reason you may have a hard time finding an example of a military jacket modification a la Thompson is because they're rare(on purpose?) Although Thompson makes it sound like it's easy and commonly done, in my experience they are rare and just never seem to look quite right. Are you sure you're going to be satisfied with a modified military uniform jacket at your next Highland/ Scottish event?

Have you considered using your obvious sewing skill and ingenuity to transform a good quality tweed sportcoat into a kilt-length jacket? There are several good threads here at Xmarks that guide one through doing this and most of the results have looked very smart. I suspect for less than what you've already invested you could make a top-notch tweed kilt-length jacket that would pass muster at Braemar.

At the risk of being labelled a cold water thrower, I'm a bit concerned that you will turn up and your next Highland event and feel 1) annoyed because everyone keeps asking if you're in the military or 2) self-conscious because you think you stick out like a sore thumb.

Best of luck whatever path you decide to take!

Cordially,

David

[Zardoz]

Regarding a waistband, should it be the same material as the jacket, or should it be the 2 inch thick elastic knit style waistband on "member's only" style jackets? Also, if I get a waistband put on, should the belt go over the waistband or under? I just picked up 2 more of the dress jackets so I can try numerous different configurations if I must. This is not as easy as the description in SYGTWTK!

I'm not much of a tailor, but I've talked about this with my wife, who is a good one;
If it were me, I would do the waistband in the same material as the jacket. The Thompson drawings show the belt over jacket, a very 'UK military' style. That looks cool, but limits the wearing options a bit.
I would make the band snug, but allow room for the kilt and a belt under the jacket, that way you could have the option of opening it for more casual settings. Depending on the cut/fit of the jacket, I'd assume the shell will be a little bigger than the waistband, so some gathers or pleats at the rear or sides would be appropriate.

[manfrozeninaglacier]

I tried posting the pic. It will be later in the thread.

[OC Richard]

I should point out that the British Battledress jacket, and it's American copy the Eisenhower jacket or Ike jacket, are a different beast altogether than the sort of jacket shown in the OP and on my post, which is the US Army "class A" or "dress green" jacket which is the equivalent of the British Army No2 Dress jacket.

It's apples and oranges. The Battledress jacket was loose-fitting and had a built-in waistband. They were likened to the overalls worn by garage mechanics. They were made of coarse drab wool.

The British No2 Dress jacket and its equivalent the old US Army "class A" or "dress green" jacket were cut more like a civilian suit jacket, and tailored to be close-fitting, and made of fine suiting fabric.

[manfrozeninaglacier]

I modified the jacket again, cutting it down and adding the waistband (and pleating it to be more form fitting), but the pic didn't post. When I get home I will post the new pic. I still have a lot of the jackets and might also mod one more like an argylle and see how that works. Thanks for all the comments.

[thescot]

I was thinking of the "So you're going to wear the Kilt" mods as well, but I didn't know the OP had a copy, so this is what we are looking at;


. . .

I still think this is one of the best looks a man can adopt. It's functional, neat, only slightly "dressy," and, for lack of a better word, manly. I will own one some day if I can quit spending my money of other stuff like sporrans and Harley Davidsons.

A pretty nice one can be had from WPG at http://onlinemilitaria.net/shopexd.asp?id=137&bc=no . (Just don't put any military stuff on it.) Add a leather duty belt or kilt belt, and it's a pretty natty look.

[MacLowlife]

Slightly OT, but the Ike Jacket, the Thompson Jacket, whatever you may call it, is also a very close cousin to the venerable Levis denim jacket. As The Scot points out, it is a great looking garment, with or without a kilt. Depending on the waistband and the closure, I think the Thompson jacket can be worn open and/or without a belt, making it slightly more versatile.

Still DavidLPope's point is a good one. Now and then someone will look at a modified military uniform item and see it for what it is. Somehow, khaki trousers seem to have transcended that, as have bomber jackets, but almost anything made of Army Green fabric is going to look like it came from the surplus store. Once you have honed your eye and your skills, I would second the idea of working on a civilian garment.

[BobsYourUncle]

Actually, as conversions go, this is a very good one. There are, however, one or two further modifications that you need to carry out to end up with a really first class job.

1) you need to cut away the front of the jacket, starting below the bottom button. This cut away should be a curved line, not a straight line. If you go to the "TUNES OF GLORY" thread and scan through the pictures, you will come to one of John Mills in a British military jacket similar to what you are making. You want the front of your jacket to match his as near as you can possibly make it.

2) as with all "modified" jackets the pockets are waaaay to low. The easiest way to remedy the situation is to acquire another Class A blouse in AG44 and remove the two breast pockets and stitch them in place over the existing pockets. This may seem a bit fiddly, but the end result is well worth it as the jacket won't have the tell-tale home made look of something cut down to wear with the kilt.

Good luck with your project!

I agree with Scott and OC Richard. You have a great start, the jacket already looks great, following their suggestions will improve your results. Thompson's "So your going to wear the kilt" is a great resource. Gud on ya.