Questions on the Newsome 4yrd Box Pleat or 8yrd Knife Pleat?

[M. A. C. Newsome]

I actually wrote a brief article for X Marks a while ago on just this question. I hope you've had a chance to review it, but if not....
CLICK HERE!

My current kilt collection consists of 10 four yard box pleated kilts (seven in 16 oz worsted wool, and three in tweed), two five yard knife pleated kilts (one in 12 oz worsted wool, one in tweed), one six yard knife pleated kilt (in 16 oz worsted) and two eight yard knife pleated kilts (in 16 oz worsted). All of them get at least some wear.

I live in western NC and we have a pretty mild climate all around. We have four distinct seasons of approximately equal duration; cold winters, mild springs, hot summers, and mild falls. I find that the kilts I reach for to wear most frequently, year round, regardless of weather, are my four yard 16 oz box pleated kilts.

In all truth, the only seasonal differences I have for my own kilt wearing is that my tweed kilts get more wear in the colder months. But that's really more of a difference in the texture and feel of the fabric itself rather than a function of the yardage or pleating style.

I'll wear my 8 yard knife pleated kilt only when I really feel like I want that extra "swish and swing." Otherwise, it's one of the lower yardage varieties, which are really quite comfortable to wear.

[Schiehallion]

Each to their own... but in my opinion having seen, but not worn a box pleat kilt, the look is more skirtlike than the knife pleat and to me a box pleat when worn does not have the splendor and swing. When worn it often forms more of a barrel shape when dancing walking and moving etc and reminds me and others, of girls' school uniform skirts in tartan. A look with which I would not like to be associated. To me it looks like a half hearted attempt at a kilt. I know this will ruffle many feathers but it is my opinion, and feel it should be consigned to history as a stage in the development of the kilt. The only box pleat I would wear would be the regimental box pleat... a knife pleated military kilt with a box on the edge of each knife pleat so designed to give equal swing to left and right when marching. The ultimate in design!

[M. A. C. Newsome]

Each to their own... but in my opinion having seen, but not worn a box pleat kilt, the look is more skirtlike than the knife pleat and to me a box pleat when worn does not have the splendor and swing. When worn it often forms more of a barrel shape when dancing walking and moving etc and reminds me and others, of girls' school uniform skirts in tartan. A look with which I would not like to be associated. To me it looks like a half hearted attempt at a kilt. I know this will ruffle many feathers but it is my opinion, and feel it should be consigned to history as a stage in the development of the kilt. The only box pleat I would wear would be the regimental box pleat... a knife pleated military kilt with a box on the edge of each knife pleat so designed to give equal swing to left and right when marching. The ultimate in design!

You are, of course, welcome to your opinion. I, for one, am perfectly content with the fact that people will have certain personal preferences when it comes to pleating style, fabric weight, yardage used, etc. When I am helping a client select a style of kilt, my guiding principle is always to try to get them into the kilt that they will enjoy and appreciate, and the truth is that's not always what I would select for myself.

However, comments such as "reminds me of school girl's skirts" and "half hearted attempt at a kilt" really are out of line.

Point of fact is that not everyone wants the grand "swish and swing" of an eight yard kilt and that's perfectly ok. It does not mean that their kilt is a "half hearted attempt" at anything. If one looks back at the overall history and development of the kilt over time, a four yard length was much more average for a kilt than anything approaching eight yards. This "staunch traditionalist" has no problem accepting a four yard kilt, regardless of pleat style.

And just for the record, in all my years wearing the kilt, only once, and exactly once, have I had anyone make a "school girl skirt" comment to me, and I was wearing an eight yard knife pleated kilt at the time.

[davidlpope]

I have 4yd box-pleats, and 5, 6, and 8yd knife pleats, most made by Matt Newsome. My hands-down favorite kilt is my 6yd knife-pleat handmade by Matt, pictured below. It looks like a "traditional kilt"**, is made of heavyweight tartan, and is well-balanced (due to there being two less yards of fabric in the pleats)and comfortable in any climate that I've been in. It dresses up or down equally well and the craftsmanship is the best of any I've seen. In my mind it has all the benefits of the other styles with none of the drawbacks. I like it so much that I currently have another kilt of this type on order with Matt. I highly recommend this style and Matt's handiwork.








**I'm using the definition that I think most Highlanders would describe as a "traditional kilt", i.e. made of tartan, 8yds, knife pleated. It should be noted, though, that the 4yd box-pleated kilt is a historical, older form of the kilt, thus some would argue that it, in fact, is more "traditional".

[Mael Coluim]

David, Prince Charles has nothing over you! Well, maybe next in line for a Kingdom.

[xman]

... reminds me and others, of girls' school uniform skirts in tartan.

I am reminded of a roman battle skirt actually.