A question about popular sizes

[McClef]

There is indeed a big difference between a totally made to measure kilt and those that are "off the peg."

With the former there is no popular standardisation, as it is all individual measurements, with the latter the drop usually seems to be 24" with waists in 2" increments and with no seat information.

The only time I have encountered the use of only two measurements for made to measure (drop and waist) was for my Welsh Cilts from the Wales Tartan Centre, when I queried why they did not require the seat I was informed that this was not needed for their calculations. The Cilts both fit perfectly in the seat, but how they managed this is still something of a mystery!

[Pleater]

Even though I only make kilts for myself and try to stick to one set of measurements or a smaller one, (at least horizontally) the folding of the fabric is not identical in every case.

I usually pleat to a stripe, rather than the sett, so one factor is removed, that of matching the apron centre to the pleat centre.

However - the placing of the apron upon the fabric is still the first consideration. A large sett could mean cutting off fabric to get the apron right.

Slight adjustment of the size and shaping of the apron sometimes is prompted by how the pattern and the shaped edge appear at a first folding.

The size of the sett and the elements in it usually dictate where the pleats are folded, though easing the stripe slightly closer or further from the edge of the pleat can improve the appearance of the reveal, particularly within the tapering. That is where the science and math defer to craft and eye.

I do use a sliderule and micrometer when folding and sewing pleats, and am a B.Sc not a B.A. - and my musical performances did improve considerably once I obtained an electronic tuner.

Anne the Pleater :ootd: