Mk2: Girl's Box Pleat in Roscommon County Crest Tartan

[xman]

Waiting for the straps to arrive to finish kilt Mk1.3 (because it was sewn together three times) I have begun Mk2. I had a false start with this one too, but caught it before I got too far. I had the underapron centred on the wrong stripe which I realised would have made the back pleats under the two aprons of different sizes which is an idea I didn't like so I decided to absorb the extra fabric on the outside edge to make it symmetrical. Here it is so far. (it's a damned pretty tartan)



Sewing the box pleat is a little more cumbersome having to reach under the a fabric to stitch the pleats and also to use all those pins being unable to pull the fabric taut. It's incorrect to say I'm agonising or taking pains over stitching these pleats since there is enjoyment in doing it, but I am being sure to make each stitch as well as I can make it. I want my niece to look good and appreciate this kilt.

I do have some questions regarding the shaping of the aprons however. On this and Mk1 I have drawn the shape of the apron and underapron by eyeballing it. I have also followed (carefully this time) the instructions in TAoKM for marking the aprons and added the extra 1"* on the outside edge of the apron to make sure the apron covers the underapron, also being sure to reverse everything because this is a girl's kilt and the apron will buckle on the left and underapron on the right.

This leads me to my questions:

1. If the added width on the apron is to cover the underapron, why is the underapron also given an extra inch on the same side? (half at the waist) Wouldn't this negate the advantage?
2. Why is the added width not the same on both sides to make the apron perfectly symmetrical? Theoretically asymmetry should make the apron appear a little off centre and it would be easier to match the two apron edges and two underapron edges with each other if one could follow the symmetrical lines in the tartan which would be exactly the same on both sides of the apron/underapron.
Also;
3. The instructions in MaTBPK give different directions for dealing with the two deep/back pleats. Since this kilt is essentially symmetrical, I'm wondering, why shouldn't I either dart or hem both of these pleats the same way?
4. MaTBPK also directs me to follow the instructions in TAoKM and join the two fabrics from only 1" above the fell and down. Since this is a box pleat and the fabric will not be cut away I'm wondering if I should actually join the fabric right up or will this create an uncomfortable seam for the wearer to contend with on the lower back?

I know there must be a century of collected wisdom behind these directions, but they escape me so far.

X

* I have actually converted all measurements and am operating in metric units.

[Barb T]

1. If the added width on the apron is to cover the underapron, why is the underapron also given an extra inch on the same side? (half at the waist) Wouldn't this negate the advantage?

Because you add an extra inch to the underapron just at the hips (and only 1/2" at the waist), this lets the waist really snug in. And it doesn't negate what you've added to the apron edge, because you haven't decreased the pleats. Decreasing the pleats would negate the added amount on the apron edge.

2. Why is the added width not the same on both sides to make the apron perfectly symmetrical? Theoretically asymmetry should make the apron appear a little off centre and it would be easier to match the two apron edges and two underapron edges with each other if one could follow the symmetrical lines in the tartan which would be exactly the same on both sides of the apron/underapron.

You don't add to both sides, because you're not trying to make the kilt bigger. If you added to both sides, the center front wouldn't center any more. By adding just to the apron edge, you preserve the center front in the center but make sure that the fringe actually covers the underapron. And yes, the center front stripe isn't centered in the apron, but it _is_ centered in the front of the body. No one will ever notice that the right apron edge is folded along a slightly different place in the tartan than the left apron edge.

3. The instructions in MaTBPK give different directions for dealing with the two deep/back pleats. Since this kilt is essentially symmetrical, I'm wondering, why shouldn't I either dart or hem both of these pleats the same way?

Some people do, in fact, put a little tapered hem in the inverted pleat. You can do that if you want. I've never found it necessary.

4. MaTBPK also directs me to follow the instructions in TAoKM and join the two fabrics from only 1" above the fell and down. Since this is a box pleat and the fabric will not be cut away I'm wondering if I should actually join the fabric right up or will this create an uncomfortable seam for the wearer to contend with on the lower back?

Since the break in the fabric is covered by canvas and lining, why join it? It just makes a thick ridge, and a join seam under the canvas and lining is unnecessary.

* I have actually converted all measurements and am operating in metric units.

Doesn't matter what units you use. You could use smoots, furlongs, or potrzebies, as long as you're precise!

[Pleater]

You really don't have to reverse everything for a kilt for a girl.

A standard skirt might fasten on the left, but a kilt fastens on the right - mine did, when I was a girl, and I make a note of such things when there are kilts being worn in old films.

Anne the Pleater :ootd:

[xman]

Doesn't matter what units you use. You could use smoots, furlongs, or potrzebies, as long as you're precise!

Thanks, Barb. I'm trying.

You really don't have to reverse everything for a kilt for a girl.

Yes, I know, but I made the artistic decision to do so. I guess I just can't follow directions to the letter yet.

[xman]

The long weekend was good for me to get some sewing done. That and a little time burning the midnight oil tonight. Had a small heart attack when I measured the pleats in the hips and discovered I'd lost an inch, but it only took a minute to do the steeking again and gain it back. The pleats are about 0.5cm(1/8") small, but the aprons are about that larger than the split I'd intended so I think I'm good. Remarkably, the top band lined up perfectly on the under apron as well!

At any rate. Except for pressing (I found a block of wood that should do the trick) and adding the buckles and straps which should be in any day, this is put together. Now I'll place another order for more tartan cloth intended for two more kilts, mine this time, and a little something for the wife.

Thanks again for the input, ladies. I'll wager I've learned as much on this one as on the last, but this time the lessons weren't quite so hard won. On to Mk3 next. (see my avatar )

[CaseyB]

Wow! You're really tearing through these! I have been working on mine since before you started Mk 1.1 and I'm just to the point of adding the canvas! Though, I have a bit more, *ahem* material, to deal with! They are looking fantastic!

[xman]

Wow! You're really tearing through these! I have been working on mine since before you started Mk 1.1 and I'm just to the point of adding the canvas! Though, I have a bit more, *ahem* material, to deal with! They are looking fantastic!

Cheers. These three are just 3yd mini models for kids. Last night after posting I called Marton Mills and ordered 6m of MacDonald of Clanranald Muted and 8yds of MacDonald of the Isles Modern both 16 oz. I've got some Halloween performances coming up at the Vancouver Aquarium so that will likely slow me down a little.

The weather is cooling here as it is most places and although I've had my PV MacDonald casual on a few times this season, more often I've been jonesing for some wool. I must order some hose or two too.

"How poore are they that haue not Patience?

What wound did euer heale but by degrees?

Thou know'st we worke by Wit, and not by Witchcraft

And Wit depends on dilatory time:"

~ Wiliam Shakespeare - Othello Act II scene iii