Tartan is skewed at selvedge

[piperDave]

I'm just starting my 4th kilt, a McNeil modern pleated to the sett. Previous projects were 2 box pleated (McNeil modern & ancient) and 1 knife pleated (Antarctica), all to the stripe. The stripes in all of the tartan I've purchased from 2 reputable mills in Scotland are skewed a bit at the selvedge edge. That is, the stripe is straight across the weft until the last 1 inch or so at each selvedge edge. Then it curves slightly, a result, I suspect, of the edge forces generated during the weaving process. I've tried pulling the fabric while ironing the stripes straight. My results have been less than perfect. What is the best way to correct this problem? Thanks

[Paul Henry]

Have you tried lots of steam, with a damp cloth, and gently easing the fabric whilst warm and damp?It won't be a fast process, and sad to say it's not always possible. What mill was it from, did you buy it direct from them, becasue it might be worth a chat to them if you can't correct by steam

[figheadair]

Has the cloth got a selvedge i.e. woven or is it turned and woven. The results in the latter can be particularly skewed. See Fig 2 in my article http://www.scottishtartans.co.uk/Tra...e_patterns.pdf

Lots of steam and elbow grease is the answer for a woven selvedge but I don't know what the effect will be on a turned and glued hem .

[Barb T]

This is true of many of the tartans I've worked with as well. For the most part, it's only really noticeable to the kiltmaker. I stand back from it and look at the overall effect. If it's minor, i just leave it. If it is more than a little skewed, however, skewing and steaming is the solution.

The process works best as a two person job, one to hold the skew and one to steam. I lay a big thick wool blanket out on a large table to start with. This helps keep the tartan from silding around while you're skewing and pressing. Have one person hold the tartan skewed, and the other one can press. I typically "over-skew" and let it spring back a little after the press.

This is also the solution for the horribly skewed tartan (more than just the selvedge) that I've gotten on occasion from Fraser and Kirkbright.

[piperDave]

Thanks to all for the assistance and advice. The tartan has a woven selvedge. It's not a really bad problem and perhaps Barb's statement that it's only really noticeable to the kiltmaker is quite accurate in this case. But, it does offend my sense of perfection! So ••• I'm off to enlist my wife's assistance at the ironing board.