A reflection upon fabric, value and so on

[Alan H]

In my closet hang a number of kilts that I have made. I wear them a lot, though they get rotated a bit depending on seasons. For example, my first handsewn, in MacNicol, red, modern....NOT worsted wool, was on my hips on Tuesday. It's a really warm kilt! Yesterday, the Lindsay, modern 10 ounce poly/wool blend 6 yard was strapped on. Last Friday I wore the Calfornia State tartan box pleat, 4 yard in nice worsted wool, 13 ounce.

I wear and enjoy them all.

Here's the thing. The kilts which are standing up the best, and will probably last the longest, are the worsted wool, 13 ounce jobs. I wear that California Tartan box pleat a LOT and it still looks great. I wear the Lindsay wool/poly just as much and it still looks good, but I'm starting to see a bit of loss in the structure of the thing. It's still wonderful, and it still looks fine, I love it during the summer, and I'm sure I'll be wearing it for a while, yet, but there's no escaping the truth. The fabric isn't quite what it was, three years ago when I made it.

Does this mean that the cloth is "bad" or that the Lindsay kilt is somehow "bad"? No, not at all. Honestly, if I was one of those guys who only wore my kilt a few times a year, that Lindsay 6-yarder would probably last 20 years. That's not too shabby for 15-16 hours of work and 6 yards of cloth on Sale. I certainly am not complaining. There's also the fact that I wouldn't think twice about wearing that Lindsay poly/wool 10 ounce kilt on the field to throw in, or off in the backcountry on a hike.

We can go on and on about "value". I personally feel that I got excellent value when I bought the tartan that went into that Lindsay kilt. I've worn it probably once a week, maybe once every ten days for almost three years. There aren't too many articles of clothing that will last that long. There's also the initial cost issue. When I started this kilting thing, there was no way I was going to drop $400 on a kilt NO WAY. However, that's exactly what I did with my Capercaillie. So all those less expensive jobs, which I still wear and love, brought me to a place where that $400 seemed a lot more reasonable than they did, five years ago.

All this brings me to my conclusion. There are different kinds of kilts, even tartan kilts, for different kinds of purposes. However, if you are only going to have ONE kilt (or maybe two)... If you KNOW that you're going to be wearing kilts for the long-term.... If you expect to wear your kilt(s) rather a lot, though perhaps not out in real grime, sweat and filth.... then it's worth it to pay the extra dollars for 13 or 16 ounce real worsted cloth because it's going to look really nice, longer.

Just my two shillings on the subject.

[Slowburn]

Thanks for those thoughts. As I am awaiting two kilts currently one just happens to be a tank and the first one I ordered. I have been concidering value my self and it seems that several prolific posters on this forum have the ability and the fortunate position to own several differnt makes and models in all the greatest colors, and I wondered where my kilt wearing would end up. I had put some thought into the sacraficial lamb catagory but from my short time on this forum if I had the money worsted wool would be the only choise for me 8yrds for the cold and 5yrd vox for summer.

[Barb T]

And if you are learning how to make a kilt, working on top quality, heavy weight, 100% wool kilting tartan is simply easier than working on lightweight tartan, cheap tartan, or fabric that's not wool. And you don't have to buy the most expensive tartan to get really great, heavy weight fabric. Marton Mills sells lower cost but excellent 16 oz tartan in their Jura range of fabrics. They also have some really cool tartans that no one else has.

http://www.martonmills.com/range//list/51

[Eleazar]

This is great infomation and makes a lot of sense.

Thanks for the insight.

Is there a U.S. distributer for Martin Mills?

[Tobus]

There's also the initial cost issue. When I started this kilting thing, there was no way I was going to drop $400 on a kilt NO WAY. However, that's exactly what I did with my Capercaillie. So all those less expensive jobs, which I still wear and love, brought me to a place where that $400 seemed a lot more reasonable than they did, five years ago.

I've come to the same conclusion. My first kilt was a PV casual kilt, and while the fabric has held up just fine for the light use it's seen, I just can't compare it to my 16 oz. 'tank' in terms of comfort, appearance, durability, etc. New kilt-wearers are almost always shocked at the high price of a quality wool kilt, because they're usually accustomed to paying much less for their garments. But over time, the sticker-shock wears off, an appreciation for better fabric sets in, and the price doesn't seem out of line.

I'll probably never be able to afford a closet full of quality kilts, but that's the beauty of quality clothing: I won't have to. One or two well-made kilts will do the job, and if I want to spend more on new kilts, it will be just for variety's sake.

[Pleater]

I have woollen items from my teens still in good condition, but the only fibre to mix with wool and extend the life seems to be Nylon. A thin sliver of Rayon seems to do no harm but everything else has proven detrimental.

I have always had a very low turnover of garments, and shoes too - my sister always went through 20 or 30 pairs to my five, and still never had comfortable feet.

I have a jersey I first knitted when I was at home - before I was 18. The yarn has been reknitted since then, but it would be difficult to guess how old it is. Worsted spun wool requires time and skilled preparation even with today's mechanised production methods, but then it outlasts yarns and fabrics made with less effort.

Quality always pays off in the long run - if anyone reads Terry Pratchett's Disk world novels the Sam Vimes philosophy of boots also applies to other garments.

Anne the Pleater :ootd:

[T-Bone]

I heartily agree on the long-term value of the worsted kilt, based on the kilt that my grandfather wore from the late 1950's. Other than the moth-made holes, the rest of the kilt is in perfect shape...he did not take as much care of it in his last 20 years or so.

I caught a lot of flak from my father in law last weekend when he asked how much I paid for the tank I was wearing. I just told him that it would probably last longer than I and that the two wide-screen TV's he just bought might last 5-10 years. That made quiet his tone.

T

[fluter]

This is great infomation and makes a lot of sense.

Thanks for the insight.

Is there a U.S. distributer for Martin Mills?

The easy way is through your favorite kiltmaker. You can go directly to Marton Mills.

I've ordered through ScotWeb, which is quick and painless. Ordering just 2 yards for a box-pleat, it came by post in about 7 days. Four yards would probably have to come by another carrier, but should not be liable for duty at the present exchange rate.