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30th January 11, 03:30 PM
#1
Beeswax for Strap Backs and Other Leather Accessories?
I've been buying honeycomb pieces down at my local farmer's market, and collecting beeswax; sometimes use it when sewing and other things.
I see it suggested here on the forum, from time to time, to put wax on the back of sporran/kilt straps and belts.
- Is beeswax the right wax for that?
- Is there a preferred method of application?
- Any other suggestions for the use of beeswax?
And by the way, the honey from the combs is very good.
I tried to ask my inner curmudgeon before posting, but he sprayed me with the garden hose…
Yes, I have squirrels in my brain…
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30th January 11, 03:37 PM
#2
I'd be cautious about putting beeswax on anything that would come into direct contact with clothing, for obvious reasons.
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30th January 11, 03:42 PM
#3
Just saw it suggested, at least wax, several times. I don't know much about it.
I tried to ask my inner curmudgeon before posting, but he sprayed me with the garden hose…
Yes, I have squirrels in my brain…
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30th January 11, 03:48 PM
#4
I use beeswax on linen thread when sewing leather. It helps keep the strands of thread together so I am dealing with one thread instead of multiple strands.
It is possible according to the books to twist a purcupine quill or stiff piece of hair onto the end of the same kind of thread, using the pointy bit as a guide. I use steel needles myself, never tried sewing with a porcupine quill.
I would be reticent to coat the kilt side of a sporran strap with beeswax, though there are some waxed finishes for leather made primarily from beeswax. I am sure some folks who have actually done it will be along in due time, I mostly use Lexol myself.
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30th January 11, 03:50 PM
#5
Some articles about waxing leather...some with paraffin, some with beeswax
http://www.dagorhir.com/HowTo/cbgryml.htm
http://www.alpharubicon.com/primitiv...axohcanada.htm
http://www.ehow.com/how_2062855_hard...using-wax.html
...but in my limited experience with working with leather, using beeswax is tricky. You have to coat or polish the wax after applying it to the leather or it will transfer to the object it touches. Being you are talking about a sporran belt/straps, you might have to mix it with something else to make it 'harder'...like glycerin...to prevent it from getting too 'soft' in the heat.
I'd suggest that if you take on this kind of project, do a lot of testing on scraps before your belts.
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30th January 11, 04:16 PM
#6
![Quote](http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/images/misc/quote_icon.png) Originally Posted by AKScott
I use beeswax on linen thread when sewing leather. It helps keep the strands of thread together so I am dealing with one thread instead of multiple strands.
It is possible according to the books to twist a purcupine quill or stiff piece of hair onto the end of the same kind of thread, using the pointy bit as a guide. I use steel needles myself, never tried sewing with a porcupine quill.
I would be reticent to coat the kilt side of a sporran strap with beeswax, though there are some waxed finishes for leather made primarily from beeswax. I am sure some folks who have actually done it will be along in due time, I mostly use Lexol myself.
Oh, now there's something I should look into, growing flax.
I know I've seen someone on the forum talking about putting wax on the back of straps...
Anyway, yes, I've used the waxed linen thread on a few limited leather things I've worked on, as well as wax on thread for sewing fabric.
I know very, very little about any of that, but it's interesting.
I also very clearly remember DWFII discussing the use of a split hair from the back of a European boar in linen leather stitching. Also a split piece of monofilament fishing line.
Any other beeswax uses?
I tried to ask my inner curmudgeon before posting, but he sprayed me with the garden hose…
Yes, I have squirrels in my brain…
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30th January 11, 04:45 PM
#7
I use beeswax for burnishing the edges of hard leather pieces, sporran and such. I use a modified paraffin for strap backs.
The primary reason to use beeswax on edges is that you can edge-dye after burnishing, if need be. The paraffin will not allow you to over-dye.
That said, I do love the smell of warm beeswax. When I'm burnishing edges it gives a glorious, warm-honey smell to my workshop.
ith:
As for other uses, you could always go into the custom candle business...
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30th January 11, 04:46 PM
#8
Once upon a time most furniture polishes main element was beeswax, so if you have a lot of old time furniture, get ready for a lot of elbow grease
Last edited by Downunder Kilt; 31st January 11 at 12:56 AM.
Shoot straight you bastards. Don't make a mess of it. Harry (Breaker) Harbord Morant - Bushveldt Carbineers
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30th January 11, 05:27 PM
#9
Ah, it's the edges, and a different wax for the back. That makes sense.
I remember Nighthawk, et al, were making those leather mugs and things, then putting beeswax on the inside to make them waterproof or something like that.
I'm kind of hooked on this honey strait from the comb, so I'll probably continue to have beeswax to use.
I tried to ask my inner curmudgeon before posting, but he sprayed me with the garden hose…
Yes, I have squirrels in my brain…
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30th January 11, 07:46 PM
#10
![Doh](http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/images/smilies/doh.gif)
I forgot to ask. What's the best or preferred way to melt all the pieces of wax down into one piece?
I have a hot plate kind of thing, or a double boiler set up.
Last edited by Bugbear; 30th January 11 at 08:03 PM.
I tried to ask my inner curmudgeon before posting, but he sprayed me with the garden hose…
Yes, I have squirrels in my brain…
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