apron flare from hip?

[bodysuittattoo]

Barb does not quantify the amount of flare the front apron should have, it just generally states shape in an 'A' .
it definitely requires flare, because the last kilt i made still pulls open the first pleats to each side.
any body have the time to measure their aprons at hip and then at the bottom, so i can get an average increase??

[ChattanCat]

I usually use a 1.5" taper although there may be some cases where it is not appropriate.

[M. A. C. Newsome]

I usually make mine with a 2" difference (the bottom of the apron will be 1" wider than at the hips, on either side).

[Barb T]

And I find that 2" is too much and tends to make the edge of the apron curl as if it wants to be folded in a different place.

But it really depends on a lot of factors. If there is very little shaping (i.e., the apron is about the same size at the hips and waist, you don't put in much flare. And an apron that is the same width across at the hips and waist would have no flare at all.

It also really depends on how you lay out a kilt and whether you make a straight "A" or a "curved A". If the left apron edge is a straight line, the flare will be more at the bottom than if you make a curved apron edge (which is what I do and is what is illustrated in my book).

Having said all that, I've posted threads many times that point out that some people's body shapes will simply cause the first pleat to open up even when the kilt has adequate flare. A kilt is built to fit someone whose maximum circumference is at the bottom of the fell. If you have muscular or chubby thighs (i.e., you have extra bulk below the bottom of the fell either on the front or sides at the tops of your thighs), there's not much you can do about that first pleat opening up a little.

[longhuntr74]

Barb...are you saying I have chubby thighs??? LOL.

On a serious note, I think Barb just gave you about the best answer you can get. She and I have had some conversations about this and examined kilts that she has made vs. one that I made. I'm a strong proponent for the "curved A" like Barb recommends...I feel that the straight A shape always makes the bottom of the apron look weird during wear. If you're going with straight and you're thin, you could probably get away with 1" or so...otherwise curve it so that it hits the selvedge at a 90 degree angle.

[bodysuittattoo]

kk thanks i'm relatively slender 34 waist 40 hips.. i have made the aprons with 1" flare from waist to hip.. measuring now at the thighs (feet slightly apart,comfortable stance), i also have 40".. i see the problem.. where my breech sticks out the back, my thighs stick out the front. the first 2 kilts i made (pre ownership of "the art of kiltmaking") i did not flare the apron at the hips (the aprons are rectangular panels) and that DEFINITELY does not allow the apron to rest correctly. nor does simply flaring from hip to waist. the curved flare idea seems the most logical, the widest apron flaring to be at the thickest part of the thighs. any ideas on how much that should be? somewhere between 1 and 2"? and should i add to the under pleat as well?

[Barb T]

Barb...are you saying I have chubby thighs??? LOL..

Hee hee. Actually, you're the one with the muscular thighs - I'm the one with the chubby thighs. But the consequences are similar.