Open Fronted Doublets

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

Why is it that Sheriffmuirs are the least practical in terms of both cost and comfort?

To really fit well a Sheriffmuir needs to be made to measure, or better yet, totally bespoke, and this drives the cost up, well beyond what most people are willing (or able) to pay for a jacket that will see only occasional wear. The reason for the cost is that these jackets require skillful tailoring, and quite a bit of it. The waistcoat buttons all the way to the neck and must be shaped to the contours of the wearer's body or it won't lay flat across the chest and stomach; The same is true of the jacket, which also closes at the throat; not only does that measurement have to be accurate, the fit across the back and shoulders is critical as the jacket curves gently open as it falls across the chest to the waist-- again following the contours of the wearer's body. When all of this is taken into consideration, plus the cost of the fabric and buttons, it's easy to see why a well-fitting, bespoke Sheriffmuir and waistcoat can cost well over GBP 1,000.

When Burns said, "Ye canna be both grand and comfortable" he was quite possibly referring to wearing a Sheriffmuir on a warm evening.

As far as comfort goes, even if the Sheriffmuir is made to fit the wearer (as opposed to being bought off the peg) it is not the most comfortable jacket in a warm room, especially if engaging in a strenuous activity like eating or dancing... When I would wear my Sheriffmuir I wore (1) a tee-shrit under (2) a dress shirt with (3) a detachable (not wing) collar, around which went (4) the band of the jabot; over this went (5) a silk waistcoat (with, as I recall, eight buttons) that buttoned all the way to my throat. My jacket (6) then went on and, it too, buttoned at the throat. Oh, and I almost forgot; the jacket had (7) a removable "patrol collar" that attached to the inside of the velvet collar to protect it from rubbing on my neck, as well as (8 & 9) detachable lace cuffs at the end of each sleeve..

Thus swaddled one may look like a million bucks, but if the room is the least bit warm one is in danger of sweating like a Turk stoking the boiler on the Orient Express!

At the moment, I use a Braemar (like a black Argyll but with mariner cuffs) for my only evening jacket. It is as versatile as MoR says, but am looking for something more formal...

Well, I'll make two, no... three, suggestions: Go with a made to measure Regulation Doublet, but insist that it have three buttons on the right and three button holes on the left (as with an ordinary suit coat). Six buttons up the front, as seen on Prince Charile coatees, is just plain wrong, so don't do it. If that's not quite what you're looking for, then go for an Argyll jacket with gauntlet cuffs. You can have the bodice and sleeves done up in tartan (on the bias) or velvet if you want something other than black barathea. Whatever you choose, insist that the cuffs and lapels are done in either corded or grosgrain silk (avoid a satin finish) and that the collar is done in black velvet.

To further difference your "formal day wear" jacket from your "formal evening wear jacket" you might want to consider replacing the buttons on your day wear jacket with either cloth covered buttons, or with black, faceted "jett" buttons. These are not expensive, and are readily available at most fabric shops.

In my opinion a velvet or tartan dress Argyll jacket not only looks grand, it is the most comfortable evening jacket going.

Maybe Burn's wasn't right after all when he said, "Ye canna be both grand and comfotable..."

[CMcG]

To really fit well a Sheriffmuir needs to be made to measure... <snip>

Thus swaddled one may look like a million bucks, but if the room is the least bit warm one is in danger of sweating like a Turk stoking the boiler on the Orient Express!

<snip> If that's not quite what you're looking for, then go for an Argyll jacket with gauntlet cuffs. You can have the bodice and sleeves done up in tartan (on the bias) or velvet if you want something other than black barathea. Whatever you choose, insist that the cuffs and lapels are done in either corded or grosgrain silk (avoid a satin finish) and that the collar is done in black velvet.


In my opinion a velvet or tartan dress Argyll jacket not only looks grand, it is the most comfortable evening jacket going.

Maybe Burn's wasn't right after all when he said, "Ye canna be both grand and comfotable..."

These are some very interesting suggestions in regards to a tricked out Argyll, which seems like they would elevate the formality of the jacket quite neatly. I did a brief image search and couldn't find any examples. Does anyone have pictures of an Argyll thus enhanced?

[JSFMACLJR]

These are some very interesting suggestions in regards to a tricked out Argyll, which seems like they would elevate the formality of the jacket quite neatly. I did a brief image search and couldn't find any examples. Does anyone have pictures of an Argyll thus enhanced?

I wear a tartan Argyll jacket, with a few bits of velvet thrown in for good measure.

[SlackerDrummer]

What Sandy didn't tell you is that he beat up a mannequin to get it.

[creagdhubh]

I wear a tartan Argyll jacket, with a few bits of velvet thrown in for good measure.

Always smart Sandy!