Dicing first developed on the Scottish bonnet (what today we call the Balmoral bonnet) in the 18th century, before either shakos or Glengarries were invented.
Seems that the headband of the bonnet would have a ribbon passing through it (to adjust size). This ribbon was tied in the back (which is why all forms of Scottish headdress including the feather bonnet have ribbons in the back).
At some point in the 18th century slots appeared in the bonnet's headband, the adjusting ribbon thus passing in and out of view. When the ribbon was a contrasting colour to the headband, a sequence of squares or dices was the result.
That's the story, anyhow. Is it true?
If so, one would think that there would be a period when one-row dicing was the norm, which might then expand to two rows, then finally three.
But in looking through a large number of 18th century illustrations I see only bonnets with no dicing up through the 1750's, then in the 1770's bonnets with the normal modern three rows suddenly appear. These are worn both by civilians and military.
Shakos were not adopted until after 1800.
Glengarries were invented by an officer in the Cameron Highlanders in the 1840's, and then spread to the other Highland regiments.
Each regiment varied as to dicing:
Black Watch and Cameron Highlanders, and pipers in ALL regiments: no dicing
93rd (later Argyll & Sutherland) Highlanders: red and white dicing
Gordon Highlanders, Seaforth Highlanders: red/white/green dicing
Red/white/black dicing is a modern civilian thing.
In The Highlanders of Scotland, a series of portraits done in the late 1860's, the vast majority of the bonnets show no dicing. However one Balmoral has the normal modern three-row dicing, and one has ONE row of dicing. Interesting.
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