Jacket conversion -- how much leeway in size?

[Cygnus]

One of the main concerns of a jacket conversion is that the pockets are about an inch-and-a-half to two inches lower on Saxon jackets than on kilt jackets. If this jacket is a Long, it is not just longer in the arms, but taller in the body as well. These pockets look about where all of my jacket pockets are. If you shorten the sleeves, the pockets will be even lower than on a jacket that fits you to start with.

The pockets on this one certainly look high enough not to be much of an issue (assuming the lower edge of the jacket is cut to about 1" higher than the cuff). I hadn't considered the need to shorten the sleeves, though. That may present a bit of a problem...

[auld argonian]

I'd sort of frame it up before I cut...While most "saxon" jackets have the hem of the jacket about two inches below the sleeves. most of the photos that I've seen of jackets that look good (to me, anyway) have the hem just about evven with the sleeves BUT with the pronounced cutaway for the sporran. There was some photo reference kicking around...I'd be careful about going too short on the body; it looks more like a bolero jacket than a kilt jacket when the bod is too sort.

Does anybody else remember bolero jackets? Ole!

Look at some of the threads about trad highland dress before you proceed.

Best

AA

[Bugbear]

Does anybody else remember bolero jackets? Ole!

As a matter of fact, I do remember them. Way, way too short...

[Tim Little]

Thanks all for the advice and encouragement!

Fortuantely I have a nice Geoffrey (Tailor) barathea "Braemar" to serve as pattern for my mother-in-law to work from, so that should give an idea of exactly how far the pockets need to move. I figured it would just entail moving the pocket flaps up an inch or so (so that the bottom of the flap just covers the top of the pocket)... but hadn't counted on what the cutaway might do to the pockets themselves!

The jacket should arrive next week, so we'll have a better idea of what we're working with.

Anyhow, I came across this pic of the conversion Greg (beloitpiper) did a few years back:



That certainly gives us something to aim for; if mine comes out half as nicely, I'll be quite pleased!

[MacMillans son]

The points that typically, and immediately, draw negative attention from me are the pockets appearing too close to the hem, and an angular cut on the front vs. a slow smooth radius cut (the jacket shown by beloitpiper has done a great job of avoiding both of those).

I would much rather have the length a touch too long, relative to fell length, and the cutaway a touch too narrow, as the jacket is worn open anyway, than to have what appear to be 1-1/2" pockets and an chopped angular cut in the front to allegedly allow access to the sporran that is easily accessed anyway because the jacket is worn open.

Just my 2 cents.

[auld argonian]

One of the other things that I've noticed is that you need a jacket with a snug fit and one that doesn't have a lot of padding in the shoulders. Big shoulders make you look sort of top heavy when you're wearing a kilt. I've also learned to try stuff on rather than go by size. I recently found a nice sportcoat on sale (radical sale) and tried the 42, which is sort of my nominal size, and found the shoulders too broad. A 40 fit much better. Sizes are all over the map these days so you can't go by them.

Best

AA

[Tim Little]

Well, the jacket arrived last week and it actually fits quite nicely. While the body of the jacket is cerainly too long, the sleeve length is not much of an issue -- they might stand to come up about and inch, but that's about it. It's not vented in back, so I think it should be easy (?) enough to add side vents -- or just leave well enough alone.

I had my wife take some "before" pix of me in the jacket and some comparison pix of me wearing my Braemar so my mother-in-law will have an idea of what she's aiming for. When I get a chance I'll post 'em here, too, for your perusal.