PC Jacket for upcoming event

[2nd to One]

Hello!
A friend of mine (Hothir) is hosting a Homeschool Alumni event in May, which includes a folk costume-themed ball.
Since he re-introduced kilt-wearing to me last year, I figured it is a no-brainer to wear my kilt to the event. However, I want a jacket, as the event is folk costume /or/ formal, and I thought, "Is it too much to ask for both?"

After much hunting for either a jacket to convert, or the out of print Simplicity Argyll jacket pattern, I bought Folkwear's 'Scottish Kilts' pattern, (#152).
I'm in the (very early) pre-production stage (read: laying it out.) I have one concern at the moment, the pattern calls for silk peau de soie for the jacket facings/lapels. Unfortunately, I haven't got any of that in stock... I had never even heard of it before now. In the interest of not spending a bundle on my first jacket, (and just not spending a bundle right now, period,) my mom suggested just using my fabric for the facings, (the same as the rest of the jacket.) I'm all for it from a money standpoint, and it's what I'll probably do, but does that constitute a major fashion faux paux? I don't really anticipate any black tie affairs in the near future, so a PC jacket is not really the best choice for me, I'm thinking anyway, but it's what I've got...
So my main concern is, Would using the matching fabric for the lapels just tone the jacket down, or turn it off?

Any insight would be great! Thanks!

[CMcG]

<snip>
So my main concern is, Would using the matching fabric for the lapels just tone the jacket down, or turn it off?

I'm no tailor but I'll venture an uneducated opinion. It would certainly tone the jacket down to use all one fabric and, though I'm not sure that it would actually ruin it, it would look better with the fancy lapels. You might scrimp a bit and use the matching fabric on the facing. You might also try to get your hands on some corded or grosgrain silk, if peau de soie is too hard to come by. I think the idea is that all of those are very smooth, lustrous materials with a slightly dull finish, rather than really shiny satin. Maybe even look for a cheaper synthetic alternative with the same effect?

[Cygnus]

The subject line says you're making a PC jacket and, though I have no advice on the silk (except what CMcG has already said), I would like to make a recommendation.

If you're making your own jacket and if you're comfortable deviating a bit from the pattern, I'd suggest modifying your pattern slightly to make a regulation doublet. It is essentially a Prince Charlie coatee with gauntlet cuffs, somewhat narrower "tails," and four tashes around the bottom. I feel it is far more elegant and appropriate for wear with a kilt than the more common Prince Charlie.

MacKenzie Frain's website is handy because it shows pictures of the doublet from the back as well as the front. The only problem with these pictures is that they have PC-style buttons down both sides of the front when the more traditional doublet has three buttons "to close" (i.e., three buttons on the wearer's right and three button holes on the left, though it is not meant to actually be buttoned).

Good luck, and I hope to see pictures of the finished product, be it a Prince Charlie or a regulation doublet!

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

I would avoid self facing the lapels like the plague! Shop around on line and get yourself a remnant of black gros grain or black moire silk (or a synthetic) for the facings of your jacket.

[Whidbey78]

I have to agree with Cygnus and MoR on this...to a point. I think CMcG and I are coming from the same, or at least similar direction. I think.

In the interest of saving time and money, you very well could go without satin and it wouldn't be a problem for this particular event. Most of the people there will be dazzled by the kilt and probably don't really realize that formal jackets almost universally have satin lapels. Even the ones who do know will probably just assume that kilt jackets don't have satin lapels. In short, few will notice, and fewer will care. So it could work for you in the short term.

Now, if you later wear it to an event with an abundance of kilted attendees who know something is amiss you may feel a bit out of place. Better to do it right the first time, and if it turns out well you will have a formal jacket ready to go next time you need one!

I'm usually an advocate of simplified dress, but this isn't really the time or place for it. It could get you through one night, but do you really want to put that much into a one-trick pony? If you're going to put all that time, money and work into it, IMHO it's better to invest your time in something that will be useful in the long-term.

[Spartan Tartan]

I'm certainly no expert, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night

I'll just echo the other good advice. Especially Whidbey78's point that you are already ingesting time and money, you don't want a "one trick pony".

[2nd to One]

Thanks, guys! I appreciate the advice.
I ended up buying some taffeta for the lapels. It's got a nice body to the cloth, and has a dull shine to it. We'll see how it goes!
Thanks again! I'll be sure to put up some pictures when it's done.