Calling all professional and amateur tailors...

[longhuntr74]

I'm taking a second crack at a bias cut waistcoat that I screwed up about 8 months ago (I had the whole thing done, but messed up the button holes...and since it was really fitted, I also grew out of it in that time...) The vest is made of 11oz. wool tartan with a tartan back vs. satin.

So I've disassembled the original vest...took out the lining, removed the fronts, removed to pockets from the fronts for re-use in the new vest, etc.

I reworked my pattern to add a little girth (the new one should be a bit on the looser side...I will decide if I want to add an adjustment strap in the back once I get it reassembled).

My question is about interfacing. On the first round I used a fusible non-woven interfacing. I found that it didn't fuse that well to the vest and was too light in weight. This time around, I'm leaning towards sew in woven interfacing. I have some heavyweight hymo that I've used in a kilt on hand. What I'm wondering is whether it might be too heavy...especially with 11oz. fabric. Do I need to go lighter weight?

Also...when I sew the dart in the front, do I stitch it before or after I baste the interfacing? I can envision the interfacing making that seem a bit bulky...but I might be wrong.

Any thoughts...and any good links on tailoring would be most welcome. I'm rather handy with a needle and thread...just trying to expand my knowledge.

[The Wizard of BC]

The basic rule of thumb when building tailored garments is that you first build the outer fabric. This includes tapers, pockets and any details incorporated into the design.

Then you add the interfacings to the back side of the outer fabric. The idea of the interfacings is that you wear the interfacings. The outer fabric floats over the top with all the stress of wearing the garment taken up by the interfacings.

Then you cover the internal construction with the lining. Linings are fitted quite loose and act not only to cover what is underneath but as an anti-friction layer that allows the garment to drape.

If you look at tailored garments as having three parts (Outer fabric, interfacings, liner) and understand what each does and why it is there it should help you to visualize how they must be done.

The general rule of thumb for the weight of interfacings is use the heaviest you can for the desired use of the garment. Lighter weights for summer garments and heavier for winter garments etc. The interfacing you describe for your vest is very good for a summer weight garment.

[sydnie7]

Here are some links that might prove helpful. I've got a tailored jacket for Bob in the works, but it has taken a far back seat to other priorities (not all fun). Do let us know how it turns out!

A coat "sew-along" with many links at lower right

More than you ever knew about buttonholes!

"Made by hand" -- this blog has some great shots of inner details of bespoke garments

Bergen Tailor Supplies -- link is to interfacing page but they have oodles of other goodies

[fluter]

Sydnie, thanks for those links! I am a fan of tutto fatto a mano.


Here are 2 books I have enjoyed reading. I've only applied the ideas to modifying some jackets; I'm still a wannabe tailor.

Classic Tailoriing Techniques describes hard-core, old fashioned suit construction.

Tailoring: the classic guide... is a new edition of a book showing hand and machine technique, sewn-in and fusible interfacing, in various combinations. I have the first edition, which Amazon still lists (also a Kindle edition; no Nook AFAIK).

[Dixiecat]

I have some heavyweight hymo that I've used in a kilt on hand. What I'm wondering is whether it might be too heavy...especially with 11oz. fabric. Do I need to go lighter weight?

Yes, the heavyweight hymo is too much for your vest front. I'd suggest something in between what you used the first time and the hymo. If you are using tartan for the back and not satin, you could use a light-weight interfacing, but that might be something to decide once you've gotten to a certain point.

[longhuntr74]

Yes, the heavyweight hymo is too much for your vest front. I'd suggest something in between what you used the first time and the hymo. If you are using tartan for the back and not satin, you could use a light-weight interfacing, but that might be something to decide once you've gotten to a certain point.

It's funny...I got the opposite answer from another quite accomplished tailor/seamstress. I was leaning towards your opinion...thinking that the heavyweight hymo might be too heavy...until I washed it/shrunk it. It's much more flexible now...and doesn't feel too bad.

Now all that being said, this 11oz. tartan has a considerable amount of give to it. I'm thinking that a fusible woven might be preferable to Hymo due to it's ability to stabilize the fabric itself. Any thoughts Dixiecat or others? Also, how many layers of interfacing should I have at the buttons and buttonholes. I'm thinking that I want some heavyweight hymo there in addition to any other interfacing I may use, yes? If I do, should it extend all the way up along the neckline to the collar, or just tack it where the buttons will be and let the buttons and/or buttonholes keep it in place once the garment is complete?

Gabe...where are you on this thread? Need your input, as I know you've made some tartan garments lately!

[Paul Henry]

Waistcoats don't always need a lot of extra interfacing, if you are not careful they could end up with a very stiff front, which won't flex enough in general use, and won't sit as well.
My advice is not to use fusible interfacing, few tailors use if for top quality garments, prefering the standard one.
I would often put an extra strip on the button stand and button hole line, this in itself gives strength and support without adding a lot of extra weight, and yes I might tack it in but allow the buttonhole stitching to hold it securely.

This is a waistcoat in Marton Mills 16 oz tartan, I didn't use any interlining/interfacing in the front at all except for the button stand. It does have inside facings of the same tartan, so that adds sufficient strengthening.It's a fairly traditional bias cut with 2 pockets.
The back is satin lined as I think that the lighter weight makes it more comfortable under a jacket, and even without the jacket the matching/contrasting back adds a little but of interest!

[longhuntr74]

Good input Paul. With the 11oz, it definitely needs interfacing...but I could understand why you wouldn't necessarily need it for a 16-20oz fabric, especially one with a facing on the inside. As I said, this 11oz is extra stretchy...not quite like a knit...but close.

[Dixiecat]

Without actually having said fabric in my possession I really can't say positively what I would do.

However, here is what I do when faced with interfacing choices:

Cut a 6-10" strip off one end of the fabric, and cut it into 6-10" squares. Then pick out whichever interfacings you're considering and try them out on the squares. Whichever square gives you that 'hand' you were envisioning for your project is the one you use. Or if one is not quite right, you build from there.

If the fabric is 100% wool, lightweight, but lots of stretch. I would not consider fusible interfacing. To apply a fusible properly, the wool will shrink and you'll end up with bubbles or wrinkles. You could of course pre-shrink the wool if you were dead-set on fusible interfacing. And contrary enough, some fusibles need to be pre-shrunk as well.

Your solution may actually be that you'll need to pre-treat your wool and use a sew-in interfacing. You might want to steam press that stretchiness out. One method is to steam iron by lightly pressing and then holding the iron about 1" above the fabric and steaming. Or there's the London shrink method, where you roll your fabric in a damp sheet, let sit overnight and then lightly steam press (that's pressing, not ironing). Once you've done that, your interfacing options might change slightly.