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I've actually always been struck by how little overlap there actually is in the tartans that the major mills weave. Strathmore doesn't have stock weaves in 16 oz tartan. House of Edgar has a ton of 14 oz tartans and relatively few 16 oz tartans. Lochcarron is just the opposite. Dalgliesh has a huge range of 11-12 oz dress tartans for dancers and stocks very few 16 oz tartans, and you'd go to House of Edgar for the few regimental weight tartans that are out there. And some individual tartans are available from only one mill.
So, if you combine tartan weight and tartan pattern, you will likely have only one option unless you are looking at a common tartan. If you're flexible about tartan weight, you have more options. And, if you have to have a particular less common tartan in a particular weight, it's likely to mean a custom weave.
To me, the Cadillac of tartan (mixing metaphors from previous posts!) is D.C. Dalgliesh custom weave. But, as Rocky says, it's a very individual thing. My least favorite by a mile is F&K, although I haven't made a kilt from their tartan in over year, and they might have changed.
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Thank you all very much for all your very prompt replies; they give me plenty to think about and research.
Barbara, would not have known who F&K were without the benefit of your excellent book. Being UK based, I'll stick with UK sources for the time being until I feel the need to try out Freedom or Alt. kilts.
If you are going to do it, do it in a kilt!
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 Originally Posted by tpa
Barbara, would not have known who F&K were without the benefit of your excellent book. Being UK based, I'll stick with UK sources for the time being until I feel the need to try out Freedom or Alt. kilts.
I was not sure from your quote whether you were confused as to what F&K was. This is Fraser and Kirkbright, a weaving company based in Vancouver, British Columbia -- not to be confused with either Freedom Kilts or Alt Kilts. F&K produces a lovely cloth -- including tartan -- made of merino wool which is ideal for a number of creations.
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 Originally Posted by KiltedKnome
I was not sure from your quote whether you were confused as to what F&K was. This is Fraser and Kirkbright, a weaving company based in Vancouver, British Columbia -- not to be confused with either Freedom Kilts or Alt Kilts. F&K produces a lovely cloth -- including tartan -- made of merino wool which is ideal for a number of creations.
Sorry for that Barbara, thank you for clarifying. I realised you were talking about Fraser and Kirkbright because you have them listed in the Art of Kltmaking. From what you have said, I gather their tartan is more suitable for scarfs, plaids, skirts an other items which do not need a pleat. Does having a different "hand" mean that it would not look right if worn with a garment in the same traditional Scottish tartan ?
If you are going to do it, do it in a kilt!
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