I've made around 20 'sports' kilts...well, OK, only 13 were really wearable! I found that a 2 inch visible pleat worked good for these. The secret of this was a 6 inch back pleat and a 4 inch top pleat. The top pleat would lay over the back pleat and give you a 2 inch visible pleat. Camo material is VERY verable. Be sure to wash first to get rid of the sizing and losen up some. I also sewed a knife edge on all the outer edges of the pleats. Here is a summary...Originally Posted by cormacmacguardhe
1. Cut the fabric about 1 inch longer than your measurements on length.
2. Use a ruler or cardboard template to mark pleat edges with tailors chaulk starting about 6 or more inches from the under aprons back edge (I used about 30 inches for a 44 inch kilt).
-suggestion- I did not worry about the front or under apron until last-
3. After marking about 20 pleat edges (practice fold and look at what you have done). This will give you 10 pleats (visible pleats and under pleats).
-comment- a tradition kilt has 'around' 25 pleats.
4. I would measure with practice fold and this and look for about 25-27 inches width on a 44 inch waist.
-comment- If you are like me the kilt will have to be about a inch longer in the back other wise it will rise up in the back and not get a good 'square' look. Some call this the 'beer belly cut'-
5. I would iron these folds (steam iron) to set a edge in the pleats.
6. Get out the machine and sew a knife edge on the outer and inner pleats (the inner is optional and take longer to sew but I like the way it lays). I have a guide which will give me about a 1/8th inch edge on this for a good knife edge.
-comment- This DOES NOT give any taper to the pleated portion. I cheat as you will see later..
7. Lay out the fabric and fold the sections closed and take a break. Remeasure to check to make sure you don't have add any pleats. Pin pleats and measure up from the bottom 2/3 (IE if length is to be 24 inches measure UP 16 inches) and mark a line with tailors chaulk. From this line UP to the top will be where you will sew down to set the pleats. (In theory this should fall right about the top 1/2 of the butt curve).
-comment- Here I tack down sewing as close to the knife edge of the pleat as possible from the line up.
8. If you look at things now you will have a pice of cloth-pleated section-piece of cloth. At this point you can wrap it around you and see if the sides hit you right.
9. At this point I had my wife line up the back bottom to square the line and mark the waist line on back and side. Mine ended up about an inch higher in the center of my back.
-suggestion- get a belt and drape the kilt around you holding it inplace and marking with chaulk.
9a. After this I would make darts in the sides to CHEAT on the taper. Pin and check fit.
-suggestion-do this regimental, over pants this will create a slighly bulky feel and the dart will not be as accurate.
NOTE: If the darts are alot you can also take some from sides and off center of the back.
10. CHECK AND DOUBLE CHECK before sewing darts(inside) and then I cut off excess.
11. The under apron and over apron will need to be fixed. I usually did about a 2 inch taper from top to bottom BUT again pin and check. The inner edges of the aprons will be folded under at an angle. You will have to fold under and hem the edges of this as they will dip down below the sides of the kilt.
-comment- At this point you should have a more traditional look to the kilt layed open.
12. Fold under and sew the outer edges of the aprons.
13. The moment of truth.....fit again and check to top of the kilt belting it in place and HAVE SOME ELSE square off the kilt. Next, trim off the top excess.
-NOTE- If you talke off too muchoff the top you can correct by makeing a wider waist band
14. Cut a strip of cloth 3 inches wide for a 1 inch waist band 1/2inch folded under-1 inch outer-1 inch inner and 1/2 inch fold under. Adjust for wider waist band.
15. Pin the waist band making sure your sewing will attach both sides around the top of the kilt. Fold in and sew the ends of the waist band.
-NOTE-I like a FIRM wasit band so you could use any 'cheat' technique here.
16. Make belt loops and sew on and then get HOOK AND LATCH (velco) WITHOUT ADHEASIVE (this will gumm up the machine on sewing). I like 1 inch wide. Fit again and mark where you want the hook and latch. Sew it on and add any extras.
-suggestion- I ended up using hook and latch on the inner apron inner side and the outer apron outside getting some nylon webbing and snap latches to give it a 'fun' traditional look.
I think I put all the steps in BUT if I did not it will be evident as you work it.
There are also some other modifications BUT I'll let you discover those as you go...
Richard-
Bookmarks