First attempt...

[turpin]

Jeez! I'd have to see it first. I'd be scared to do it otherwise. It would be cool if one of the kiltmakers could post a video of the process.

[SSgt Baloo]

Jeez! I'd have to see it first. I'd be scared to do it otherwise. It would be cool if one of the kiltmakers could post a video of the process.

Actually, it's a pretty good method for splitting woven cloth in a straight line, as long as you want the "cut" to be parallel to the warp or woof. I made a (sort of) blanket capote/inverness cape from 2 army blankets. This made for a fairly warm & rain-resistant garment, even though it's unlined.

The instructions for the capote I based the garment on insisted that you "snip and tear", as this would ensure less ravelling. The only kind of cloth I've run across thus far which doesn't seem to work that way is anything made from very strong fiber. Linen, some man-made fibers, and (I presume) silk don't tear very well.

--SSgt Baloo

[Barb T]

OK. As far as the "splits" go, you should put _more_ than half in the apron at the waist, and _less_ than half in the apron at the hips (because everyone's butts stick out behind). So, with your measurements, I'd do the following:

w: 37 1/2
h: 44

splits:

waist: 19 1/2" in the apron; 18" in the pleats
hips: 21 1/2" in the apron; 22 1/2" in the pleats

That will also reduce the taper on each side to something that is very manageable. I've made kilts with as much as 2.5 -3" on each side, but it is _tough_.

23 pleats - your tartan must have a pretty big sett!!

each pleat at waist: 1/2 + 1/4 + 1/32 would be spot on

each pleat at hips: 1/2 + 1/4 + 1/8 + 1/16 + 1/32 would be 1/4" too small; 1" would be 1/2" too big.

Sooooo, if you make the pleats at the waist each 3/4" plus 1/32", it'll be perfect. If you leave off the 1/32 and make each pleat exactly 3/4", it will be about 3/4" too small at the waist. So, I'd make each pleat a scosh bigger than 3/4" at the waist. You definitely don't want it too small.

If you make each pleat 1" at the hips, the kilt will be 1/2" too big. For your first kilt, I'd just leave it at that (again, it's better to be a little big than a little small). Just try not to make them bigger than an inch.

Cheers!

Barb

[Kilted Taper]

Quick update. We're reaching the home stretch. Spent all afternoon Saturday and Sunday on this puppy!

Full shot of the back with canvas:


And the front:


Fringed end:


Top Band:


Closer shot of pleat canvas and button hole:


Pressing is next. There is no pressing ham in the house, is it really that important? I know they are VERY VERY easy to come by so no biggy if the answer is yes.

Just ordered about 14 different colors of thread for the next two projects and have the US Bicentennial ripped and front apron chalked out. Who knew that not only is kilt wearing addicting, but so is kilt sewing!?!?!

[Pleater]

You do need something you can use to recreate the three dimensional curve of the body inside the kilt when it is being pressed - after all, the whole idea of the pressing is to make it fit around you smoothly, so hammering it flat onto the ironing board is rather defeating the object.

If you look at the photo of the front of the kilt laid flat there are some diagonal 'dunes' on the aprons, where the pleats are pushing the material outwards because of their shaping.

Buy the ham.

Oh, thats a nice tartan, by the way, that's going to be a good looking kilt when it is all done.

[Kilted Taper]

FINISHED!!!! Wowzers. Pictures posted in the Picture forum.

http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=22637

[Kiltman]

I didn't really believe Barb about ripping. Then one day I tried it. After some frustrations with it not willing ripping it did. What a difference a rip makes. I now look forward to doing it.