Begging for opinions on a sewing machine

[Kilted X]

For the time being a waystop might be good for you would be a Bernina model #1008. It is the base model, I think my wife paid $600 for hers. But it is all metal gears & housing. I just got leather needles to do my sporrans. I got cow skin about 1/8"-1/4" thick.

My wife got hers because she work in the costume shop for theater in college. They had Berninas that are 20-30 years old that are beat up but in top working order.

Go to a couple of sewing shops around your area & get the opinions of the sales people, be sure to take the Swinger specs with you so you can compare price, guts, & options. JoAnn's & Hancock Fabrics are nationwide chains that have sewing machines. Also be sure to go to the small shops, they tend to have the better quality machines. Sometime at the smaller shops they will have a demo or used machine sales with full warranties. Where someone has traded in thier old machine for a better one.

[turpin]

Go to a sewing machine repair shop and talk to the people there. They see it all and can tell you which models break down more. They may also have some reconditioned machines for cheap.

also, do a search here for more threads on machines. I have seen several in the last 6 months.

[Dreadbelly]

About the metal... The person I spoke to told me that all of the internals on the machine are metal, with no acrylic, nylon, or plastic on the mechanical moving parts.

I am conflicted here because I trust Rocky's opinion, but covet a half way decent low cost sewing machine.

So far, the only major complaint I can find in all of the online reviews of the machine is that it is very loud and rattles a lot. It seems they skimped out on things to reduce the vibration.

[The Wizard of BC]

Dread,

I don't know anything about your specific machine but your last comment made me say something.

If people say the machine is noisy and rattles I would immediatly look elsewhere. One factor of any machine is vibration control. High vibration leads to excess wear and failure.

My Pfaffs are all over 30 years old. Each runs smooth and vibration free. And each is still in daily use.

Now some machines are called thumpers. But they run at very slow speeds and have a lot of weight of metal moving. Most of these are very heavy duty machines like those used to sew saddles and harnesses. The mass of moving metal is needed to drive a needle thru 1 1/2" of solid leather.

The reason that a good quality machine cost so much is because "you get what you pay for" and they are proven over the years to do the job they were designed for and to last for years.
And in the long run are very inexpensive to operate.

A craftsman is only as good as his tools. Buy the best you can possibly afford.

[Dreadbelly]

Dread,

I don't know anything about your specific machine but your last comment made me say something.

If people say the machine is noisy and rattles I would immediatly look elsewhere. One factor of any machine is vibration control. High vibration leads to excess wear and failure.

My Pfaffs are all over 30 years old. Each runs smooth and vibration free. And each is still in daily use.

Now some machines are called thumpers. But they run at very slow speeds and have a lot of weight of metal moving. Most of these are very heavy duty machines like those used to sew saddles and harnesses. The mass of moving metal is needed to drive a needle thru 1 1/2" of solid leather.

The reason that a good quality machine cost so much is because "you get what you pay for" and they are proven over the years to do the job they were designed for and to last for years.
And in the long run are very inexpensive to operate.

A craftsman is only as good as his tools. Buy the best you can possibly afford.

Bolting it to a table or otherwise mounting it on your work surface helps considerably from what I was told.

And I am thinking that noise is a relative thing. When looking around, I keep finding these whisper quiet models... And find all of the internals are made from things not metal. It looks like people give 1 star ratings about sewing machines for even a slight electrical hum. I mean, I can't say for sure, but it seems to me that a machine made from metal parts would probably draw fire from some types.

I've done a lot of looking... This model has been around for years and years and years it looks like, since before I was born, and it has remained virtually unchanged. It still comes in the dull army olive drab green. It only has 10 stitches. I've found some kind of kit where you can alter this particular model and hook it up to a foot powered pedal. (No electricity required) I've also read in more than one place and heard it from a sale person in an customer service email that they are probably going to drop this model from production, which is why the prices have dropped on it so much recently. Some places still have them listed for 600 or 700 dollars or more, but most have dropped down to 399.99 or even 299.99, including some refurbs for 199.99. I could actually get one of the refurbs right now this minute... For 199.99. I mean, that is not a bad deal at all for a good 'starter' machine. But the refurbs don't have the 25 year coverage on the machine and free in home servicing that the new ones have.

School is going to provide me with a 'free' sewing machine, a midrange Brother unit, which is going to be mine to keep. I've been told it is nice enough for light to medium duty work.

[Canuck]

I started with a straight stitch singer built in 1929. This one is black with gold decals. I can sew almost anything with it. Bought it used for $125. Trick is to keep it well oiled and change your needles for every project.
Like Steve I'm running a couple of Pfaffs. Mine are different than his. One is a model 460 with a computer control. The other is a walking foot model a 1245. I also have an Adler and it's a thumper but it can sew plywood!
You can get a good used industrial for a reasonable price. If you keep it lubed, and some have oil baths, It's rare that something will go wrong. Knee controls for presser foot operation or foot controls just can't be beat.
I buy needles in packages of 100. Different types for different materials.
If you plan on producing 50 - 1000 garments a year the heavy duty domestic units are not going to cut it. Most of the warranties are void if you use them for comercial use. Read the fine print.
The Industrials will stitch up to 3500 stitches per minute, domestics 200 stitches per minute
Also I use 1-2lb cones of thread, large bobbins. If you are serious about this, I think I would hold off, look for a good machine, see who in the area services machines and see what they are selling. If a machine breaks down even if it's covered under warranty how long is that machine going to be out of commision?
If I look around my shop I have thousands of dollars invested in Sewing machines, cutting tables, presses and tools. I'm a one man operation! I know Steve has a number of machines and tools. Rocky as well. For us to do this properly and have good quality product and if you want to compete with the big guys, you need good tools.
as well as have the knowledge and experience to use them.
However a hand sewn kilt is something of beauty, good eyes, good needles, proper thread and materials and patience. Another route to follow.
Figure what you're going to make with what materials. The do everything machines are may not give you the results you desire.

[bunchdescendant]

Dreadbelly-

Remember to keep your eyes open-this Rex industrial was a give-away from one of my schools. Sews like a champ! Just don't get your fingers in the way-they will be sewn with no effort at all!!



It was going to be tossed if I didn't save it from the dumpster!

Ask around-you never know where you might find a gem.

Ray

[kiltedcougar]

heres another heavy duty low-cost alternative

[ian]

I second that opinion. I was also interested in this machine. Singer is not what it used to be. I talked with several people (repairmen/techs) from several shops and these machines are NOT rated well, at all. They said if you don't buy ours please don't buy that either. I also spoke with women who sew and they echoed this. They usually drop ship (bulk ship) these to Sam's Club and Wal-Mart to get rid of them. The failure rate is high and the support is crap. If it breaks you are screwed. Within the last year I started making kilts on an ancient Singer Featherweight Model 221 (Still renowned and sought after machines in quilting circles, when they made good products). I could have continued using it but wanted an over stitch for serging edges since I'm making modern kilts with twills and denim which tend to fray. The 221's are hard to find and can cost as much as a new machine even though they are really tiny and parts are easy to find. It only does a straight stitch and need attachments for zig-zags.

Many machines in the home market are generally made for quilting, crafts and embroidery and not meant for heavy duty sewing. You really need a commercial machine with a DC motor (For Torque) rather than AC and with a presser foot that can lift beyond the standard one inch height for leather (It also requires a leather needle with a v-chisel type point). No, I don't sew sporrans but I know this machine is not going to work for you.

I found that Janome makes a lot of the hardware for most home machines. I spent the cash and got a Pfaff for sewing kilts. Great machine, but the heavy denim kilt I'm working on is cutting it really close because of the thickness of the material.

If your serious and I think you are you going to have to spend more for a machine that will do leather well. The Pfaff I got was a low ender and I forked over 500 bucks. It'll sew light leather and suede but not heavy leather. Again, most "home" machines sold are generally for craft sewing and light work, not commercial/industrial sewing. For woolen (laine) kilts home sewing machines can do just fine.

I've found for kilt making a straight, zigzag and over stitch is all I need. I also have a 25 year old Singer 646 which seems to be forged from an anvil and I broke the hell out of the gears sewing heavy denim. The parts are almost impossible to find hence the Pfaff. The old Featherweight 221 simply cannot do denim. I borrowed my neighbors Sears/Kenmore and it was a good machine, but it was actually a Janome rebranded to Singer! My Pfaff has Janome hardware, which is a presser foot, throat plate and bobbin case.

For the love of all things Scottish, do not get this machine. The chances are you'll be unhappy with it are greater than anything. You'll be hard pressed to find an online retailer for them and they generally don't disclose the price. I fear you'll end up with a $300 piece of metal you'll detest. Having seen this machine I can confirm the above statement. Go to a Sewing retailer and talk to the repair people about it and notice they most likely will not have one on the floor. They can't even get support or parts for them. They usually carry used machines from trade-ins they have serviced and can point you in the right direction. Go to several shops, second opinions never hurt anybody.

Ask around with heavy sewers, do research and spend a little more cash than you are comfortable with and something that will just exceed your needs. Most shops will let you try the machines. Don't fall for the "sews through lead plates" demo. Lead is a soft metal and even a piece of crap machine can sew through it.

I'm sticking with a leather sewing awl as my final answer for sporrans, if this is your sole intention. I look more at a leather sewing awl for this, you almost can't break it (Tandy Leather sells them).

[Dreadbelly]

But I don't intend to sew leather!

Anyhoo, thanks. That is what I needed to hear.

I'll keep saving.

And once again, it is not leatherwork I want to do... But I would like to dabble at first in hemp stuff. I've found 20 ounce hemp canvas and the first thing I thought about it was "kilt! OMG!"

Maybe somebody around here has an old sewing machine they want to sell