11-ounce kilt question

[gilmore]

I was once looking at some wool fabric at the local Hancock's fabric store, and asked the saleswoman how many ounces to the yard. She gave me a dirty look as if I had insulted her and said most vehemently, "There are 36 INCHES in a yard."

[ccga3359]

I was once looking at some wool fabric at the local Hancock's fabric store, and asked the saleswoman how many ounces to the yard. She gave me a dirty look as if I had insulted her and said most vehemently, "There are 36 INCHES in a yard."

So my reply would be "How many inches in a square yard" and after she figures that out (1296") "Now that you have your calculator out, what does that weigh in ounces?"

[davedove]

The 11 oz. wool makes a fine kilt. My first traditional kilt is an 11 oz. one.

If you do much sitting, you will find that the lighter weight does winkle a bit more than the heavier cloth, and with heavier cloth the weight of the cloth will pull out the wrinkles easier with just hanging.

I've also heard that the heavier cloth gives you a better "swing" when you're walking.

[BEEDEE]

I was once looking at some wool fabric at the local Hancock's fabric store, and asked the saleswoman how many ounces to the yard. She gave me a dirty look as if I had insulted her and said most vehemently, "There are 36 INCHES in a yard."

Was she blonde?

Brian

[auld argonian]

Was she blonde?

Brian

Have you ever been to a Hancock's Fabrics? All of the help looks like the old ladies who used to work in your high school cafeteria only with an even worse attitude.

Blonde? She probably had that blue hair....

Best

AA

[Cawdorian]

It is my understanding that the weight of the material is based on the weight of one lineal yard of double width material.

Maybe one of our experts will check in and clarify this for us.

[Barb T]

The description says "4-inch pleats" on both of them...I assume this is the depth of the pleat.

It's not clear what "4-inch pleats" actually means. If the kilt really has pleats that are 4" deep, then the sett would have to be about 9". That's an uncommonly large sett for a lightweight tartan. In my experience, lightweight tartans more typically have setts under 6" and sometimes even under 5". So, maybe this is a tartan with a 5" sett, and the kilt has pleats with 1" reveal and 4" total hidden inside the pleat (which would make it more like 2" deep pleats). Or, maybe it's a tartan with a 4" sett and they put in a pleat every 2 setts.

Realize that, if a kilt is pleated properly to the sett or to the stripe, a kilt can't be made with an arbitrary pleat depth. The pleat depth is governed almost entirely by the size of the sett (not by the amount of tartan in a kilt or by the size of the person). If you had a 5" sett, and a pleat roughly every one repeat, the pleats couldn't be more than a bit more than 2" deep. If the sett were 6", pleats would be a bit more than 2 1/2" deep. If the sett were 9", then the pleats would be a bit more than 4" deep.

Whether a kilt made from lightweight tartan has all of the internal construction details that a heavier weight kilt has depends on who made it. If the kilt is made properly and in traditional fashion, it doesn't need any reinforcing.

I agree with the others who have said that an 11 oz kilt wrinkles more easily. And I've also found that there's 11 oz tartan and then there's 11 oz tartan. Some makes better kilts than others.

And one last. Most 11 oz tartan is not made with a kilting selvedge, meaning that the kilt will have to have a hem.

Cheers,

Barb

[The Wizard of BC]

The standard we use as kiltmakers is fabric weight is equal to one linear yard of double width fabric.

However, This is not written in stone anywhere and you will see a wide range of ways to calculate fabric weight.

For example - If the fabric is 54" Wide and not 60" the same linear yard will be 10% different. So if they both weigh 13 ounces then the wider fabric is actually lighter.

This problem is aggravated by the weavers who all have their own secret systems and by the fabric sellers who have another secret system.
I have even heard that some man-made fiber kilts are weighed by the diameter of their yarn "As if it were 100% Worsted Wool".

In general though, 11 oz. of your fabric should be 1 yard long by 60" wide.

[turpin]

It's not clear what "4-inch pleats" actually means. If the kilt really has pleats that are 4" deep, then the sett would have to be about 9". That's an uncommonly large sett for a lightweight tartan. In my experience, lightweight tartans more typically have setts under 6" and sometimes even under 5". So, maybe this is a tartan with a 5" sett, and the kilt has pleats with 1" reveal and 4" total hidden inside the pleat (which would make it more like 2" deep pleats). Or, maybe it's a tartan with a 4" sett and they put in a pleat every 2 setts.

Realize that, if a kilt is pleated properly to the sett or to the stripe, a kilt can't be made with an arbitrary pleat depth. The pleat depth is governed almost entirely by the size of the sett (not by the amount of tartan in a kilt or by the size of the person). If you had a 5" sett, and a pleat roughly every one repeat, the pleats couldn't be more than a bit more than 2" deep. If the sett were 6", pleats would be a bit more than 2 1/2" deep. If the sett were 9", then the pleats would be a bit more than 4" deep.

Whether a kilt made from lightweight tartan has all of the internal construction details that a heavier weight kilt has depends on who made it. If the kilt is made properly and in traditional fashion, it doesn't need any reinforcing.

I agree with the others who have said that an 11 oz kilt wrinkles more easily. And I've also found that there's 11 oz tartan and then there's 11 oz tartan. Some makes better kilts than others.

And one last. Most 11 oz tartan is not made with a kilting selvedge, meaning that the kilt will have to have a hem.

Cheers,

Barb

I am so conflicted when I read Barb's posts. On the one hand, every post of hers adds value to this forum and enlightens all of us just a wee bit more. I sometime find myself just searching for her old posts to glean a bit of buried treasure.

On the other hand, unless she can sew while she's typing with her toes, she's not getting any closer to the two kilts I have on order.

On the whole, I guess she deserves a bit of a break from sewing. I know she's into at least December for delivery. I know what a backlog feels like, now, and mine isn't near as long as hers. I think I just take a pill, chillax, and focus on Smith instead of Jones.

[Barb T]

On the other hand, unless she can sew while she's typing with her toes, she's not getting any closer to the two kilts I have on order.

Mmmm, ouch. Well, I sort of think of it as having many roles to play, and only one of those is kiltmaker.

B