Creating new patterns for kilt jackets

[Red_Raven]

There goes my paycheck..I'll take one each..

This site has several other books that have instructions on creating patterns for men's clothes from the 1600's to 1907. I can't afford to buy them all, but if you buy one, please feel free to chime in on how your source differs from what I'm using in pattern making, etc.

http://www.lacis.com/catalog/data/b_drafting.html

[Chef]

Working from the success of the X-kilt pattern and other kiltmaking groups and classes, I propose that we form a work group to tackle the issue and create a method to create patterns customized to our bodies and methods of construction and tailoring to make them fit as well as we can manage (not being professional tailors).

It strikes me that in looking at kilt jackets, most don't do a good job of fitting in length (reaching the waist or fell) or are hard to come by in larger or tall/short sizes that truly fit.

I admire your idea, but for most people who are not trained tailors I think it will be harder to accomplish this and end up with something that will pass as a proper modern men's jacket. And since a good kilt jacket is more fitted than a suit jacket it would be that much more difficult. I'm not saying you shouldn't pursue it just that it is much harder than it looks.

For example: Shouldn't the sides of a Prince Charlie should come at least to the waist to cover the shirt, and the tail drop to the fell line on the kilt? I know mine doesn't, even though it is supposed to be a "long". .

In most cases here it is one of two causes. Either the kilt is being worn too low or many non-traditionals are made with a lower rise than a proper kilt. If you wear a traditional kilt with a proper rise (at least to your belly button) you won't have a problem. Only if I lift my arms directly overhead do I show any shirt with a PC.

[AtagahiKC]

Thanks, Chef. I'm not naive. I know what I'm getting into.

As for the PC, my PC is too short for me. I have a long torso and the jacket itself, even in a long size, doesn't drop far enough on the sides. Just one of those delightful variations of the human body that doesn't fit with the "normal" parameters of clothing sizing.

[Dixiecat]

I have read this thread with interest and I have to say that AtagahiKC you are definitely embarking on a long journey. I'm not saying that you can't do it, but your ambitions to provide your fellows with a custom-fit pattern may be more complicated than it's worth for the average person. Think about your own words "i'm not naive, i know what i'm getting into". This is not something for the average person, but an in-depth study of a wonderful art. How are you going to translate that body of knowledge into something an average person can understand and use? If there was an easy way, it would already have been done. Seriously.

I would also update your references to:
(although the Classic Tailoring Techiniques is good. Some of my refs are geared with women's clothing in mind, however they are still very good starts)

Fitting & Pattern Alteration: A Multi-Method Approach
by Liechty, Pottberg, Rasband

The Sew/Fit Manual (Book)
By Ruth Oblander and Joan Anderson

MAKE YOUR OWN PATTERNS
by Rene Bergh

Tailoring: The Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket
Singer Sewing Reference Library by Creative Publishing
(real and up close photos of the sewing method)

Also, have a look at:
Real Fit for Real People
Pati Palmer; Marta Alto & Jeannette Schilling
-definitely geared for women, but it shows you the technique of taking a commercial pattern and altering it to fit by fitting the tissue to the body first

I'm thinking that you should lean in the Real Fit direction by learning how to fit a Real Man from a commercial pattern template. Check out the McCalls Palmer/Pletsch patterns and you'll see extremely detailed instructions and pattern markings that are enormously helpful in fitting the commercial pattern. You may find these helpful in translating fit to the average person.

Paper: Try medical table paper liner on 200yd rolls. I get mine ($8) from a medical supply store, but some get it direct from their doctor.

Don't get me wrong. What you are trying to do is a wonderful thing. Definitely a needed thing. Don't hesitate to contact me if you need some advice.

[gilmore]

...This is not something for the average person, but an in-depth study of a wonderful art. How are you going to translate that body of knowledge into something an average person can understand and use? If there was an easy way, it would already have been done. Seriously.

.....

I am so glad no one told Barbara Tewksbury this when she and her co-author were contemplating writing their book on kiltmaking. Or if they did, she didn't take their advice.

[Mark Keeney]

sorry duplicate post

[Mark Keeney]

On patterns I have the folkwear pattern and the simplicity both can make accecptable jackets (the folkwear seems a little better) I also bought a McCall's costume pattern #M4745. I was thinking of using the top part of the long coat.

Here is a jacket I made with a burda pattern.

Sorry the pictures are fuzzy it was taken a while ago with my old camera.

The older burda patterns were better than McCalls, Simplicity, Butterick, or even Vogue.

To make a jacket look the best you will need a suit form to get the fit right.

[AtagahiKC]

First Assignment:

First up for all of us is to decide on the type of our first jacket. I am purposely limiting this to the two most popular: the Argyle and the Prince Charlie.

Which one does the majority of us want to work on first? I propose the Argyle since it is the more versatile of the two and can be worn more often, but I'm equally willing to tackle the PC if everyone wants to do that instead.

There is a poll at the top of the page for you to vote. It closes in seven days. Thanks for your participation!

[ccga3359]

Voted Argyle as I feel most would have more opportunity to wear one.

[Howard Clark]

I'll second the argyle jacket !

I also have an over abundance of self confidence (as do many others of the rabble present here, I might add). But I found the thought of making a jacket from scratch pretty intimidating. I am at 15 and counting on kilts now, and only the last three have been what I would call "good enough" to wear out in public. The rest serve me well in the shop, where it does not matter what they look like, so long as they provide some warmth and protection from the debris that is the by product of making blades.

If you take the time to make the pattern, and make it available, I might try it. I found that simplicity pattern terribly confusing.

So carry on !