SWK leatherneck

[Riverkilt]

I always trust my kiltmaker. Kathy pleated mine to the sett.

The way she pleats to the sett is so precise folks will think your kilt's on backwards. Just the regular knife pleats. Not the military box pleat.



Here's the front


Yeah, red is a stretch...

Ron

[McMurdo]

Sorry...Pleating to the sett or to the stripe...What is the more common?

Pleating to the stripe is quite often a military thing whereas pleating to the sett would be more common for civilians, as a general rule, of course you are free to get a kilt pleated however you wish.

As for what kilt maker is better, well again that is up to you. I happen to own a few 8 yard hand sewn kilts, CCK's, in both wool and PV, 8 and 5 yards, a USAKilt Semi Trad, and a Stillwater standard. Having said that they all have rotation in my wardrobe, and they all have their place. I would not for example wear my Stillwater to a wedding. So the question becomes what are you going to do with it? Once you answer that it might help you to decide what kilt to go with.

My personal feeling is that you should get the most expensive kilt you can afford, bearing in mind how and wear you will wear it.

[Riverkilt]

Aye,

I have a USN semi-traditional (poly viscose) on order with Rocky at USA Kilts...with that special run of USN tartan....won't be long now.

Guessing you guys know about that...? If not, give Rocky a holler and see if he's got enough fabric for more.

Ron

[Chase]

Ron,

Hey thanks brother...Right now, I've got three kilts on order and still need two more to complete my collection...I wish I could afford the hand-sewn USMC, but I have to budget myself for the USN tartan and I was thinking of getting a Black Watch vs Texas Bluebonnet?

SF

[McFarkus]

I was thinking of getting a Black Watch vs Texas Bluebonnet?

SF

If SWK has Black Watch heavyweight in your size, you might consider it. The hand on the Australian wool is really nice.

[Cage]

I really like the look of pleating to the sett. Does choosing sett over stripe or vice versa effect the cost by adding more yardage?

Ron,
for the USN tartan and I was thinking of getting a Texas Bluebonnet?
SF

Great taste! Those are on my list as well.

[Moosedog]

I really like the look of pleating to the sett. Does choosing sett over stripe or vice versa effect the cost by adding more yardage?

In general, pleating to the stripe can use less fabric than to the sett, partly because each pleat is shallower and partly because there are more pleating options available...if you study how to pleat the two you will see what I mean.

But this really is a gross generalization. It varies so much by: tartan, sett size, desired kilt weight, pleat size and depth...and all of these can vary due to your dimensions and what looks best. Each bespoke kilt is a completely new design, or engineering project, or math problem--however you want to look at it.

In reference to the Leatherneck kilts mentioned--I own an Economy and a Heavyweight wool box-pleat. Just did some measuring.

Economy:
sett is 6 inches
pleated to the stripe
pleats are approx 1 1/8 inches
so reveals are 4 7/8 inches (about 2 1/2 inches deep because of the fold)
So for a given 12 inches of pleats it uses ~11 repeats or 66 inches of fabric

Heavyweight (military) box pleat
Sett for this ~7 1/2 inches
pleats are 1 inch at the fell (they taper noticeably, unlike the economy)
So, 12 inches of pleats uses 12 setts or 90 inches of fabric

Both kilts are pleated to the same stripe-red in yellow. But because the box pleats are narrower, the back of that kilt is more yellow as you retain the bright stripe and lose some of the darker green and blue. See how all of this gets complicated? (laughing.)

Moosedog

[Cage]

Ah! I see.
Thanks for the great answer/insight Moosedog.

[Chase]

Anyone know Jerry's name on XMTS so I can send him a PM?

[Panache]

Anyone know Jerry's name on XMTS so I can send him a PM?

Jerry's moniker is Sciuropterus, but he prefers people communicate with him by email concerning Stillwater kilts.

His email address is sales@stillwaterkilts.com

Cheers

Jamie