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27th October 08, 03:40 PM
#11
Thanks so much for posting this! I'm trying to collect as many original Kilt Hose patterns as I can. There just aren't all that many out there yet, but the number does seem to be picking up. Yes, the pattern does seem a straightforward one to me-a bit of conversion allowing for sizing would be all the adjustments needed. Mr. Drewery had a fairly long leg and foot according to this pattern-as compared to the kilt hose I knit for Tommy, however, those measurments are easily adjustable. I'll give them a try!
I don't do Scottish Country dancing, or know much about it, so it was interesting to learn of him because my Granny shared the same last name-Drewery,My Great Uncle spelled it Drury. My Granny's parents were from Scotland.
Last edited by thistlelass; 27th October 08 at 03:59 PM.
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27th October 08, 06:00 PM
#12
![Quote](http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/images/misc/quote_icon.png) Originally Posted by Pleater
These are single colour hose with cables and wide ribbing, not multicolour ones.
The 4ply yarn used is not the US 4 ply which is somewhat thicker. English 4 ply usually knits at 7 or 8 st to the inch for jerseys, but for socks it is knitted closer, to wear better.
The size 12 and 13 needles are the ones normally used for socks, the yarn - a 60/40 mix is used for hard wearing socks, the usual mix is 80/20.
Anne the Pleater
The 4 ply in US weight yarn is a sportweight yarn.
The size 12 and 13 equivalent, which I think someone else has already give are sizes 1 and 2.
I've knitted about 2 inches of the cable top pattern which is a basic plaited cable and is very easy to do and looks quite handsome! I think these hose will look great.
Last edited by thistlelass; 27th October 08 at 09:02 PM.
Reason: knitted a swatch of pattern
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28th October 08, 06:01 AM
#13
Pah! Indeed. They are a lot of fun to do. Like unwinding a puzzle. We are in the midwest for a Navy League convention (go figure) but as soon as we get home, we'll start going over the dances. Are you going to post the cheat sheets?
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28th October 08, 07:56 AM
#14
I make it easier on me I scanned this into MS Word if you see any errors please let me know. - Friday
John Drewery Kilt Hose
For those who dance and are familiar with the dances of John Drewery here is a pattern for hose that were specifically designed for him.
KILT HOSE PATTERN MATERIALS
8 25 g. balls of 4-ply wool {60* wool, 40% nylon) (US Sock or light DK Weight)
4 No. 12 needles (US 2, 2.75 mm)
4 No, 13 needles (US 1, 2.25 mm)
1 cable needle
1 crochet hook
DIMENSIONS
Circumference of top of leg 12.5 inches - stretching to 15 inches
Depth of top 3 inches.
Top of sock to top of heel 15 inches.
Top of sock to point of heel 17 inches.
Point of heel to toe 11 inches.
An extra cable (a total of 20) increases the circumference by 0.75 inch. If this extra cable is knitted, it is possible to reduce the total stitches to 100 at the end of the Kl, P1 ribbing and to follow the remainder of the pattern as described.
CABLE TOP Cable Band
Use No 12 needles (US 2, 2.75 mm). Cast on 18 stitches.
Row 1 - knit.
Row 2 - purl.
Row 3 - K 7, turn, ** Sl 1 purlwise, P 4, turn, Sl 1 knitwise K 4, turn, repeat from ** 4 times.
Slip 5 stitches most-recently-knitted on to cable needle and bring to front.
Slip 5 stitches from LH to RH needle.
Slip the 5 stitches from the cable needle on to the LH needle.
K 6 to end of row.
Row 4 - purl.
Row 5 - knit.
Row 6 - P 7 turn, **, Sl 1 Knitwise, K 4, turn, Sl 1 purlwise, P 4, turn, repeat from ** 4 times.
Slip 5 stitches most-recently-knitted on to cable needle and move this to the back.
Slip 5 stitches from LH to RH needle.
Slip the 5 stitches from the cable needle on to the RH needle. P 6 to end of row.
Repeat these six rows 18 times to give 19 cables. (Or 19 times to give 20 cables)
Using a separate needle, pick up 18 stitches from the casting on. With the cabling on the inside. Slip stitches alternately from the casting on end, then from the final end, on to a third needle i.e, a total of 36 stitches, Knitting 2 stitches together, cast off these stitches, (i.e. 18 cast-off stitches). This makes a neater join than to cast off normally, then to stitch the two ends together to make a "GARTER".
Remainder of Top
Using the crochet hook, pick up 114 (120) stitches along one edge of the garter - one from each row of the knitting, (It is easier, and neater to pick up from the second stitch in from the edge rather than from the edge stitch.) arrange these stitches on three No 12 needles (40 + 40 + 34).
Round 1 - knitting into the back of the loops, ** K 6, K 2 tog, repeat from ** to last 2 stitches, 1C 2.
Round 2 - ** yfwd, K 1 tog, repeat from ** to end of round.
Round 3 - knit.
Round 4 - purl.
Round 5 - purl.
Round 6 - knit,
Round 7 to 11 repeat rounds 2 to 6
Round 12 - knit.
Round 13 ** y£wd, K 2 tog, repeat from ** to end of round.
Round 14 - knit.
Round 15 - knit.
Round 16 - east off loosely.
Fold back the edge to give a "picot" effect and hem up.
Pick up 114 (130) stitches on the other edge of the "garter" and repeat rounds 1 to 10.
This completes the top.
THE LEG
Change to No 13 needles (US 1, 2.25 mm). Work 25 rounds of K 1, P1, Turn the work inside out to start knitting in the reverse direction. Adjust the Stitches to 32 + 10 + 38.
In the following instructions Cbl 4 means the following:-
Slip 2 stitches on the cable needle,
Pull the cable needle forward (or backwards),
K 2 from LH needle,
Move the cable needle across and K 2 from this needle.
The basic pattern round is us follows:-
Needle 1 - K 1, PI, ** K 4, P 1, repeat from ** to end of needle.
Needle 2 - ** K 4, P 1, repeat from ** to end of needle.
Needle 3 - ** K 4, P 1, repeat from ** to last 3 stitches, K 1, P 2.
Cable Round A is as follows:-
Needle l – K1, P1, K4, P1, Cbl 4, P 1, ** K 4, p 1, repeat from ** twice, Cbl 4, P 1.
Needle 2 - ** K 4, P1 repeat from ** twice, Cbl 4, pl, ** K4, P1 repeat from ** to end of row,
Needle 3 - K4, P1, Cbl 4, P1, ** K 4, P1, repeat from ** twice, Cbl 4, P 1, K4, P1, K1, P2.
Cable Round B is as follows:-
Needle l – K1 Pl, ** K4, P1, repeat from ** twice, Cbl 4, P1, ** K4, P1, repeat from ** to end of row.
Needle 2 - ** K4, P1, Cbl 4, P1, ** K 4, P1, repeat from ** twice, Cbl 4, P 1.
Needle 3 - ** K4, P1, repeat from ** twice, Cbl 4, Pl, ** K4, Pl, repeat from ** twice, K1, P 2.
Knitting the leg
Rounds 1 to 9 - Basic Pattern.
Round 10 Cable Round A
Rounds 11 to 14 - Basic Pattern.
Round15 - Cable Round B.
Repeat Rounds 6 to 15 until a total of 124 rounds have been worked.
Shaping of Leg
Starting with round 35, pattern to last four stitches, K 2toq, P 2. Then, at the beginning of round 36, R 2 tog through back of loops (tbl) . After this, adjust the beginning and end of each round so that the pattern remains constant.
Repeat the reduction by two stitches at the end of every fifth found and at the beginning of the next until 72 stitches are left (I8 + 30 + 24). This is after 100 rounds. Thereafter continue to knit without reduction to the end of round 124.
Round 125 - Needle 1 - Basic Pattern, Needle 2 - Cable Pattern B, Needle 3 -Basic Pattern.
The Heel
Needle 1 - Basic Pattern for 17 stitches, slip the last stitch on to the end of Needle 2, turn to work in reverse direction.
Row 1 - Slip 1 purlwise, p 16, p19 from Needle 3, slip the last 5 stitches on to the end of Needle 2, (there are now 36 stitches on each of two needles). Turn to work in reverse direction.
Row 2 - ** Sl 1 knitwise, K 1, repeat from ** to end of row.
Row 3 - SL 1 purlwise, P 35,
Row 4 - Sl 1 knitwise, R 2, ** Sl 1 knitwise, K 1, repeat from ** to last stitch, K 1.
Row 5 - SL 1 purlwise, P 35.
Rows 6 to 33 - repeat Rows 2 to 5 seven times.
Rows 34 to 35 - repeat Rows 2 to 3.
ROW 36 - SL 1, K 2, ** SL I, K 1, repeat from ** 9 times {i.e. 23 stitches worked), SL1, K 1, pass last slip stitch over (psso), turn.
Row 37 - P 11, P 2 tog, turn.
Row 38 - ** SL 1, K 1, repeat from ** 4 times, K 1, Sl 1, K 1, psso, turn.
Row 39 - P 11, P 2 tog, turn.
Row 40 - ** K 1, SL 1, repeat from ** 5 times, R 1, psso, turn.
Repeat Rows 37 to 40 until 12 stitches remain all on one needle, the last row will be a purl row.
THE FOOT
Round 1 - K 12, using a crochet hook pick up 23 stitches from side of heel onto Needle 1. Pick up one stitch on to end of Needle 2, pattern across Needle 2, pick up on (one?) more stitch on to end of Needle 2. Pick up 23 stitches onto Needle 3 from other side of heel. using the fourth needle K 6 from Needle 1 and slip these stitches on to the end on Needle 3. The needles now hold 29 + 38 + 29 Stitches.
Round 2 - Needle 1 knit. Needle 2 pat¬tern, Needle 3 knit.
Round 3 - Needle 1 knit to last 3 stitches, K 2 tog, K 1, Needle 2 pat¬tern, Needle 3 - K 1, K2 tog tbl, knit to end of round.
Repeat rounds 2 and 3 until 17 stitches remain on Needles 1 and 3, thereafter continue without decreasing for a total of 80 rounds.
On Round 5, and every 5th row thereafter, cable appropriately On Needle 2, but omit the cable on Round 80.
THE TOE
Slip one stitch from the end of Needle 2 to end of Needle 1, and one stitch from the other end of Needle 2 to the end of Needle 3. This makes the stitch arrangement 18 + 36 + 18,
Round 1 - Needle 1 - K to last three stitches, K 2 tog, K 1. Needle 2 - K 1, K 2 tog tbl, K to last three stitches, K 2 tog, K 1,Needle 3 - k 1, K 2 tog tbl, ** Sl 1* K If repeat from ** to end.
Round - 2 Needle 1 - if last stitch of Round 1 was K 1 ** SL l, K 1, (if last stitch was SL 1, ** K l, SL 1), repeat from» ** to last 2 stitches, K 2. Needle 2 - K 2, ** SL 1, K 1, repeat from ** to last two stitches, K 2. Needle 3 - K to end of round.
Repeat these two rounds until 24 stitches remain (6 + 12 + 6).
K 6 from Needle 1 on to Needle 3 to give 12 stitches on each of two needles.
Finish off the toe by splicing the remaining stitches as follows:-
Break off the wool leaving a length of about 8 inches and thread this through a large—eyed sewing needle. Hold the work so that the threaded wool is at the right hand end. (it will be attached to the back knitting needle). ** Pass the wool knitwise through the first stitch on the front needle, then slip this stitch off. Pass the wool purlwise through the next stitch on the front needle and leave this on. Pass the wool purlwise through the first stitch on the back needle and slip this stitch off. Pass the wool Knitwise through the next stitch on the back needle and leave this stitch on. Repeat from ** until all the stitches have been spliced. Pull the wool through to the inside if the sock and secure firmly to finish off.
When the second sock is knitted, the cable in the top should be arranged to go the opposite way round the leg from that in the first sock, and, if the cables in the leg of the first were made by moving the cable needle forward, then the cables In the leg of the second should be made by moving the cable needle backward.
Last edited by Friday; 31st October 08 at 03:40 AM.
Reason: error correction
If you see abbreviations, initials or acronyms you do not know the Xmarks FAQ section on abbreviations may help.
www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/faq.php?faq=xmarks_faq#faq_faq_abbr
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28th October 08, 10:46 AM
#15
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28th October 08, 02:29 PM
#16
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30th October 08, 06:10 AM
#17
![Quote](http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/images/misc/quote_icon.png) Originally Posted by Arlen
We are doing, I think, 2 Drewery dances at the ball. I love them. His dances are so interesting and fun.
Arlen, could you share which ones they are? It would, I'm sure, be of interest to the dancers on the forum!
Friday, many thanks for transposing the destructions. Having looked properly at them, I, as a newbie knitter, am awe struck by anyone canny enough to understand what to do. Hopefully the time will come when it all makes sense!!
ThistleLass, may I suggest that you give Scottish Country Dancing a try? I suspect that you'll find the patterns that the dances make as enjoyable as a good knitting pattern and, as you're obviously such an adept at the knitting skills, I suspect you'd pick it up very quickly.
I too am very much looking forward to seeing the finished product!
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30th October 08, 07:58 AM
#18
![Quote](http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/images/misc/quote_icon.png) Originally Posted by londonpiper
Friday, many thanks for transposing the destructions. Having looked properly at them, I, as a newbie knitter, am awe struck by anyone canny enough to understand what to do. Hopefully the time will come when it all makes sense!!
Londonpiper - I'm a relatively new knitter my self. I would make a couple of suggestions toward knitting socks/hose.
- Check out the video on KnitHelp on knitting the heel of a sock.
- Also check out the sock tutorial on Come to Silver
- Knit a couple of baby socks. They take only a few minutes, compared to full sock or kilt hose, but cover the "Hard" parts.
- Knit a pair of normal, just above the ankle, socks to check the fit to your foot.
- Come join the group at KnitHelp Any Sock KAL (Knit a long) or the Kilt Hose and Flashes forums at Ravelry - They both have a lot of knowledge and are very happy to help everyone.
- Most important!
- Socks are easy -
- They are knit one stitch at a time.
- Don't be concerned about the next row/round of stitches until you come to it.
- Ask for help we have all been there.
- Kilt Hose are simply socks with a thyroid problem.
- Knitting is fun and relaxing.
- and the one I have the hardest issue with - don't worry about perfection it will come.
Need a pattern - for a very basic pattern to fit you try the knitting Fiend Hour Glass Knee Sockulator you type in some basic measurements and it prints out the pattern. - trust the pattern the first time - play after that.
To start take the Knitting Fiends pattern add a K4, P1 ( or a pattern to match you stitch count) for the leg and a k2, p2 ribbing for the fold over. This will give you a nice pair of hose for daily ware.
If you see abbreviations, initials or acronyms you do not know the Xmarks FAQ section on abbreviations may help.
www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/faq.php?faq=xmarks_faq#faq_faq_abbr
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30th October 08, 01:31 PM
#19
![Quote](http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/images/misc/quote_icon.png) Originally Posted by Friday
I make it easier on me I scanned this into MS Word if you see any errors please let me know. - Friday
Thanks so much for converting, Friday! Much easier to read and save, I've put it in a Word doc for my future use now. Can't start on a pair just yet, I'm in the midst of another pair for my son, and then it's on to other holiday gift knitting before more hose.
My input about the yarn weight noted for these from my past knowledge-4 ply is actually a bit finer than what we in the States call Sport weight. 4 ply would be equivalent to fingering (commonly now called sock weight), and normally knit at 8-9 sts/1" for socks worked on a fine sized needle. I love to collect vintage yarns, and have plenty of fine 4 ply fingering weight aging in my stash, as well as 3 ply which is just a tad finer and wonderful for extra-dressy socks and hose.
Dawn
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31st October 08, 03:43 AM
#20
![Quote](http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/images/misc/quote_icon.png) Originally Posted by Knitknut
Thanks so much for converting, Friday! Much easier to read and save, I've put it in a Word doc for my future use now. Can't start on a pair just yet, I'm in the midst of another pair for my son, and then it's on to other holiday gift knitting before more hose.
My input about the yarn weight noted for these from my past knowledge-4 ply is actually a bit finer than what we in the States call Sport weight. 4 ply would be equivalent to fingering (commonly now called sock weight), and normally knit at 8-9 sts/1" for socks worked on a fine sized needle. I love to collect vintage yarns, and have plenty of fine 4 ply fingering weight aging in my stash, as well as 3 ply which is just a tad finer and wonderful for extra-dressy socks and hose.
Dawn
Dawn - Thanks - I corrected the yarn weight to say "(US Sock or light DK Weight)"
I converted the original to Word and use little squares for bullets on most rows. This makes is easier to check off when I have completed a row when I get a change to knit it.
If you see abbreviations, initials or acronyms you do not know the Xmarks FAQ section on abbreviations may help.
www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/faq.php?faq=xmarks_faq#faq_faq_abbr
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