What can I do with a brass cantle?

**AKScott** · 15th January 11, 07:23 PM

Are the sealskin and buff deerhide removable Matt?

I flashed immediately to my ROTC days (past geologic era) when I read the first and second responses.

I might be able to upgrade to sterling silver from brass, the melting points are 893C and 900C respectively, though my materials cost would be dramatically higher. I suspect I would still need a removable bag, I carried a sterling silver tuba in marching band for many years (Conn #15C), I remember the black powder coming off that thing would stain anything it touched.

Thanks for the input. Brass will be formal enough for anywhere I am likely to go this lifetime it sounds like, as long as I can take the fur bag off to keep it polished. I don't expect to have pictures before August.

**Downunder Kilt** · 15th January 11, 08:02 PM

If I may answer re Matt' sporrans. they should be able to be removed by removing the covering studs as per below photo

Matts are the MKll version of the 1953 sporran cantle which is pressed from brass plate whereas the one in the photo is the MKl version which had white metal rivets on the front brass plate. There is also a different opening mechanism on the MKll

**figheadair** · 16th January 11, 02:37 AM

I only ever wear one. It does me for every occasion, it's just everything else that changes. Posted it before but here it is again.

**BoldHighlander** · 16th January 11, 02:55 AM

Mike, thanks for posting a picture of the open MoD cantle. It's the first time I've gotten a good look at the inside of it.

Originally Posted by Downunder Kilt

**Downunder Kilt** · 16th January 11, 03:49 AM

Terry, if you would like anymore just give me a hoy mate.

**M. A. C. Newsome** · 16th January 11, 05:32 AM

Just to confirm, yes, the cantles on both the buff hide sporran and the seal skin are removable. So technically I could be using the same cantle on both bags, but these are in fact two different cantles. Removing the cantle will certainly make cleaning that much easier, though!

**Tartan Hiker** · 22nd January 11, 05:03 PM

Originally Posted by Downunder Kilt

Terry, if you would like anymore just give me a hoy mate.

If I may, I'd really like a close up of the latch, both sides. I see the tensioning spring (and have seen coil springs used for this, but I really like the leaf spring arrangement) but I'd really like to see how the latch works on this one.

Thanks!

**Downunder Kilt** · 22nd January 11, 05:27 PM

Originally Posted by Tartan Hiker

If I may, I'd really like a close up of the latch, both sides. I see the tensioning spring (and have seen coil springs used for this, but I really like the leaf spring arrangement) but I'd really like to see how the latch works on this one.

Thanks!

Tartan Hiker, below are some photos of the working mechanism for the MOD 1953 MK 1 cantle as requested

Hope these show you what you want to know The brass catch on the front plate of the cantle has a lip that catches the latch when pushed back against it (Sorry tried to photograph the lip but just couldn't get it)

**AKScott** · 23rd January 11, 12:10 AM

Downunder, on that one you have to lift "up" on the knob to get the sporran to open, correct?

**Downunder Kilt** · 23rd January 11, 12:20 AM

Originally Posted by AKScott

Downunder, on that one you have to lift "up" on the knob to get the sporran to open, correct?

That's the way you do it.

I have seen 3 of them and they have all been repaired. The spring steel at the bottom of the knob tends to seperate from it. I have seen 2 repaired using silver solder and 1 repaired by the bottom of the knob being drilled, tapped and a screw used to attached the spring steel.