Military Box Pleats: how much "excess" to cut-out of the fell?

**Aspiringloser** · 20th July 11, 08:56 PM

If the pleats are stitched to the bottom of the fell and you do proper steeking, then why do you need to leave more than 1/2 inch? I realize there is more bulk due to the extra fold but I just don't understand why you can't cut out the bulk the same as a knife pleat. Someone in the know please fill me in. What tartan are you working with by the way?

**slohairt** · 20th July 11, 09:50 PM

I just saw this thread now. You would just leave the same amount (1/2") as if you were making a typical "tank". After all, you aren't using more fabric.

**slohairt** · 20th July 11, 09:51 PM

Originally Posted by Aspiringloser

If the pleats are stitched to the bottom of the fell and you do proper steeking, then why do you need to leave more than 1/2 inch? I realize there is more bulk due to the extra fold but I just don't understand why you can't cut out the bulk the same as a knife pleat. Someone in the know please fill me in. What tartan are you working with by the way?

Royal Canadian Air Force.

**jhockin** · 21st July 11, 08:55 AM

The reason I've been so cautious, about leaving more than 1/2" ( and posted this thread, asking for info from those who had actually made a MBP), is that BOTH "way2fractious"
( post # 4 @ "http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/f116/military-box-pleat-trial-16994/" )
and "JohnH"
( in post # 13 @ "http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/f144/military-box-pleat-kilt-27980/index2.html" )
in their posts ( while making a MBP), note they think there should be more than 1/2" seam allowance left.
Leaving a 2" wide seam allowance, as I've done, means that there are 6 layers, of material, across most of the fell. If I trim that down to 1" wide side seam allowance ( which I can still do) would leave 4 layers - which I may do, to avoid the dreaded "pillow-butt" - and would still leave a good "base" for the hair canvas.
Doing the steeking,now - and thinking about trimming that additional 1" off the sides of the cut-outs. Suggestions?

**jhockin** · 24th July 11, 07:49 AM

Yes, this is the RCAF tartan.
I've trimmed the seam allowances, along the sides, to 1", and down to 1" above the bottom of the fell. This leaves 4 layers of material, at each pleat, in the fell. I also basted down the layers of seam allowance, to ensure that they lay flat, on each pleat, while sewing-in stabilizer & hair canvas.

**jhockin** · 27th August 11, 08:26 AM

For those who might be interested, I thought I'd post some pics of the finished project:

**xman** · 27th August 11, 08:49 AM

Lookin' good! Does one sew such pleats as box pleats are sewn (I assume)? Steeking must be a bit fiddly, eh?

**jhockin** · 27th August 11, 09:49 AM

I used a "ladder stitch", to sew the pleats, in the fell, as I couldn't figure out how else to do it ( perhaps the experts/"old hands", that do this style of pleating, all the time, use some other method??). As this was my first attempt at this style of pleating, I did a LOT of basting, to make the pleats, before sewing the fell. The steeking was just the same as in TAoKM.
Hopefully, the next MBP I do will go faster.