what weight tartan for my kilt

**xman** · 14th August 11, 08:51 PM

Originally Posted by David Dubh

Would heavyweight or mediumweight be better for the kilt?

I don't have any medium weight kilts myself, but the ones I have seen and sewn seem fine for gentlemen to wear. That said, it is a common feeling that the heavier cloth makes a better kilt.

Originally Posted by mookien

Does HoE do traditional selvedge? If so, are they the only weaver other than Dalgliesh?

Untrue. Strathmore weaves their cloth with a traditional selvedge. HoE has many plaids that use a traditional selvedge and some budget cloths that don't. Their MacDonald Dress tartans are, I believe in the former category.

**Riverkilt** · 14th August 11, 08:55 PM

I can't see a noticable difference in the swing or warmth of my various weight wool kilts from various mills. I would recommend going with the color you prefer - be sure you see a real swatch first.

A personal preference is to have tartans that are important to me done up in the top of the line material - but I also have taken light weight cloth to get a kilt made in a tartan I like.

Bottom line - "Sorry cousin - there isn't an easy answer....pick one and enjoy it."

**Laird O'the Cowcaddens** · 15th August 11, 11:07 AM

A whole bunch of GREAT advice being given, and from the people that KNOW what they are talking about. I prefer 16oz 8/9yd kilts, there is nothing better to me than the way that they hang and SWING. I agree with the commentator as to colour; this to me is of the utmost consideration when planning a new kilt. Post some photies of your final decision.

**lukeyrobertson** · 15th August 11, 01:16 PM

Originally Posted by Riverkilt

I can't see a noticable difference in the swing or warmth of my various weight wool kilts from various mills. I would recommend going with the color you prefer - be sure you see a real swatch first.

A personal preference is to have tartans that are important to me done up in the top of the line material - but I also have taken light weight cloth to get a kilt made in a tartan I like.

I appreciate Riverkilt's thoughts. I own an 8-yrd HoE 13oz muted kilt. I chose it primarily for the colour palatte, but also because, with 8 yards of cloth I thought it enough weight (all these months later, it's still lots of kilt for me and my build). The HoE selvage is very nice, best I've seen so far. After a day of wear, I hang it up to air, and the wrinkles "fall out" by morning. The cloth is excellent. And it "swishes and swooshes" very nicely.

I also have a 16oz box pleat. The difference in the weight of the cloth is noticeable and necessary for a lower yardage kilt. But colour and weight can be a conundrum. My next kilt will likely be another 13oz HoE because it's muted tones are proprietary to HoE and not available in other heavier lines of cloth. So, I'm forgoing weight in favour of colour palette again.

Bottom line: I really like my 8yd 13oz HoE. It's comfortable and holds up really well. Good luck with your choices. We'll all want to hear how it turns out.

**fluter** · 15th August 11, 06:57 PM

Originally Posted by lukeyrobertson

I own an 8-yrd HoE 13oz muted kilt. I chose it primarily for the colour palatte, ...

Bottom line: I really like my 8yd 13oz HoE. It's comfortable and holds up really well. Good luck with your choices. We'll all want to hear how it turns out.

I have a similar kilt, chosen for the lovely colors (and an excellent price on the tartan). It's still a pretty substantial kilt. It is just over 3 years old, and only now am I thinking of giving the pleats a touch-up pressing.

You can hardly go wrong with any of the mills, so "weigh" your choice according to your own desires. If you choose the HOE based on color, I predict that you'll be pleased with it.

It might be instructive to calculate the approximate weight of 13 versus 16 ounce fabric. The difference may be less than you would expect (52 versus 64 ounces for 4 yards double-width), but the drape of the heavy-weight fabric can't be beat.

**creagdhubh** · 16th August 11, 12:36 PM

Originally Posted by lukeyrobertson

I appreciate Riverkilt's thoughts. I own an 8-yrd HoE 13oz muted kilt. I chose it primarily for the colour palatte, but also because, with 8 yards of cloth I thought it enough weight (all these months later, it's still lots of kilt for me and my build). The HoE selvage is very nice, best I've seen so far. After a day of wear, I hang it up to air, and the wrinkles "fall out" by morning. The cloth is excellent. And it "swishes and swooshes" very nicely.

I also have a 16oz box pleat. The difference in the weight of the cloth is noticeable and necessary for a lower yardage kilt. But colour and weight can be a conundrum. My next kilt will likely be another 13oz HoE because it's muted tones are proprietary to HoE and not available in other heavier lines of cloth. So, I'm forgoing weight in favour of colour palette again.

Bottom line: I really like my 8yd 13oz HoE. It's comfortable and holds up really well. Good luck with your choices. We'll all want to hear how it turns out.

Very interesting comments, as I have been very interested in the Macpherson red tartan in muted colours from House of Edgar. A good friend of mine on this forum (ScottishTerrier) owns a casual kilt in this tartan. The only Macpherson tartan done up in muted colours, and not a custom weave, that I know of, is from House of Edgar, in the 13 ounce weight. Whereas all of my kilts are in the heavier 16 ounce range, I may be willing to have a kilt done up in the lighter 13 ounce, House of Edgar, Macpherson muted tartan - simply because I absolutely love the colours!

However, I am not completely sure what I will do just yet. I may approach Dalgliesh to see if they could weave a Macpherson red in muted colours, similar to the House of Edgar colours - not sure if they would be willing to do so. Bottom line, I would love to have the Macpherson red tartan, done up in a muted colour scheme, in a heavyweight fabric. I haven't owned a kilt in a non-heavyweight tartan since I was around 14-15 years of age, when I did have a 13 ounce, Macpherson hunting modern. I no longer wear or possess the kilt, as I have since out grown it and gave it to a family member.

Cheers,

**mookien** · 14th August 11, 09:40 PM

David: If Strathmore's web pages are complete, it doesn't appear that they offer a heavyweight MacDonald Dress - only light and medium weight. So, that eliminates them, traditional selvedge, or not.

Your only option then may be to ask Dalgliesh to do a custom run. You could send them a swatch of HoE medium and ask them to match it as best they can. You might first ask Srathmore, or even HoE, to do a custom run of MacDonald Dress in their heavyweight, but they probably have a large minimum.

I see Strathmore's is 30 metres. Have some friends who are interested? ;-)

**figheadair** · 14th August 11, 11:46 PM

Originally Posted by David Dubh

Hi all
I'm looking for some more advice for my next kilt. I'm possibly considering doing dress macdonald for my next kilt. I would like to do a single width with a traditional selvedge end. It will be an 8 yarder. I like house of edgar colours in the medium weight, but I think that I want a heavy weight tartan. My question is should I just do the medium weight or I could go for custom woven by dc dalgleish having them use the same colour wool. My present kilt is 16oz macdonald of the isles ancient from marton mills.
What say the rabble custom woven or HOE medium weight???

Regards David
ps I think I'm going with Randell's of Edinburgh for the kilt maker.
Slainte

Heavy weight every time and I'd go with Dalgiesh but I have to ask - what Dress MacDonald? There are so many beautiful and truly old MacDonald associated tartans why go for a c1900 invention? If you are thinking of custom weave then there would be no cost difference.

**Freelancer** · 16th August 11, 04:20 PM

I have three 8 yard 16 oz kilts from different mills, and one 8 yard 13 oz from HoE. I can perceive a slight difference in the weight, but for all practical purposes there is virtually no difference in the feel and swing. The 13 oz HoE fabric is a fine fabric and I would not hesitate owning another in that weight.

**MacMillans son** · 16th August 11, 09:26 PM

I am all in favor of "buy the 16 oz. when ever possible" idea. However, if the tartan you like is only available in 13oz. AND you are unable/unwilling to pay the premium for a custom weave, I would go with the one I liked in 13 oz. before the one I liked less in 16oz. I did just that when choosing 13oz. HoE MacMillan Hunting Modern over Lochcarrron 16 oz.. I liked the colors more than I was wedded to the weight, and i was unwilling to pay the premium for a custom weave. I have not regretted that decision at all since making it.