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  1. #11
    Join Date
    2nd July 12
    Location
    Carrollton, Ga.
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    Chas,

    I was wearing a cotton shirt, tee shirt and underpants. It just gets brutally
    hot at Grandfather Mountain games in July. I will get a waist band of some sort next time.

    James

  2. #12
    Join Date
    17th January 09
    Location
    The Highlands of Norfolk, England
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    Wow, James, you surprise me. I suppose, different places, different circumstances. But if it gets through three layers, then it is a good thing that you know how to wash your kilt.

    Good luck.

    Regards

    Chas

  3. #13
    Join Date
    27th January 11
    Location
    Matlock, Derbyshire, UK
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    Thanks, Anne, really helpful.
    If you are going to do it, do it in a kilt!

  4. #14
    Join Date
    28th June 12
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    Slanj commando flaps - genius

    http://www.slanjkilts.com/Kilts-and-...ndo-Flaps.html

    Not sure about getting stains out of your waistband but if you get commando flaps fitted there will be no worries about stains on the apron or pleats inside. And no more chafing !

    They zip out and you just stick them in the washing machine !

  5. #15
    Join Date
    2nd July 12
    Location
    Carrollton, Ga.
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    Bill,

    What a great idea. Thanks.

    James

  6. #16
    Join Date
    2nd July 12
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    Carrollton, Ga.
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    Are the commando flaps available from any where here in the states? Or just from Scotland?

  7. #17
    Join Date
    27th October 09
    Location
    Kerrville, Texas
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    Commando flaps, LOL! I hadn't seen that particular product before. Well, at least they didn't call the rear one a mud flap.

    jimk23, I feel your pain. Here where I live, you can't be outside all day without sweating through every layer of clothing and absolutely saturating it. Sweat stains aren't slowed down by extra layers of clothing. Rather the opposite, in fact. More layers means more sweat that can't evaporate and provide cooling!

    Anne, I have a question about your instructions. You mentioned adding a cup of white vinegar to the last rinse. But you didn't mention how much water goes with that cup of vinegar. Do the proportions matter? Is there a specific pH range I could check for that's ideal? Or is it sufficient just to say that the vinegar should be well diluted? The reason I ask is because I typically use filtered rainwater for washing wool, which is already naturally acidic. If I knew an ideal pH range, I could check it and then decide whether to leave it alone or add vinegar.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    3rd January 06
    Location
    Dorset, on the South coast of England
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    If you have enough water in the bath to have the kilt able to move around easily, for the swooshing, then a cup of vinegar is in the right range.

    I don't have access to any pH measuring things - it is fairly easy to tell with knitted things as they tend to feel clinging as you handle them in the first two rinses - the alkaline pH makes the scales of the wool fibres stand up, and the vinegar smooths them down. As I usually have more knitted wool than woven I just do the same thing for all.

    Anne the Pleater :ootd:

  9. #19
    Join Date
    21st April 11
    Location
    Bozeman, Montana, USA
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    Thanks Pleater,
    About the detergent, how does woolite work? I've also read somewhere that you can mix lanolin with the detergent. Is that true?
    Scotland is only 1/5 the size of Montana, but Scotland has over 3,000 castles and Montana has none.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    22nd June 11
    Location
    Walcott, IA 52773
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    If you have enough water in the bath to have the kilt able to move around easily, for the swooshing, then a cup of vinegar is in the right range.
    Completely unrelated to kilts, but if you add vinegar in lieu of liquid fabric softener to towels (assuming you dry with a fabric softener sheet), they will come out of the dryer much softer. I also use the vinegar on my jeans (I don't dry mine), and they're less stiff after coming off the line, because there's no left-over soap in them.

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